INS22F8 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Followedinstructions that came with kit. Kit parts were unnecessary as new valve fit in exactly as old one had been. Quick connect for flow out of valve to maker was a surprise as no threaded connection present and no nut necessary; simiply push the line into place. Reconnect water line, check for leaks and refasten back covering. Instructions with kit contained an incorrect drawing of connecting water outflowline; a one page addition verbally gave correct info, but detailed step by step instruction for this one connection was confusing. Otherwise, could not have been easier; surely a do-it-yourself project.

Disconnect ac power line, disconnect power line going to the water valve. Turn water off atthe cockvalve. Disconnect water line to valve. Disconnect plastic tubing going in the valve. If plastic is old you may have to replace it to keep from leaking at the quick connect coupling. Connect water line and plastic tubling to new valve, connect power clips to new valve. Plug in the refrigertor and turn on water at the cock valve and your good to go

Thought we'd try the Water Valve before replacing the ice maker. Ordered new valve online on Saturday, it arrived on Tuesday. I installed it twice in less than 30 mins. Had a little leak the 1st time, so I uninstalled it, trimmed up the water line with a box cutter and reinstalled without issue. No leak this time. Easy Peasy. My husband said "You're good, you." :)

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

The part could not be installed without home made angles which were attached to unit so that it would only protrude from back of refrigerator about 2" instead of 6".

Pull box out ""unplug box"" empty frezer including storage baskets,place ice maker in off remove ice cube box, do not remove ice maker, useing nut driver loosen side rail screws about 1/4"slide basket rails in or out and pull to center of box should slip off screws, remove light bulb cover & bulb, remove 4 screws holding ice worm drive motor "" hold "" will fall it is atached to a electrial plug un plug and lay aside,unscrew back panle screws 4 left 4 right on back cover, " remove hiden screw at top center of back panel and pull up and pry out at bottom silde out downwerds,remove cross plates one center one bottom these hold defoster bars, unwind wires center defroster bar somewhat difecult bottom one just slide down unplug from panel at top behind where ice cube drive was located, replace new defroster assm reasemble defroster bars into cross bars wind in & plug up new wires behind cooling fins being carefule not to cut or nick wires of bend cooling fins replace screws,wires are 1 small plug 1 large,reinstall back panle top center screw first don't tighten aline side screw holes replace side screws then tighten top screw. Replace drive motor being sure to conect,replace bulb,bulb cover,side railes,bens,ice cube box & put ice maker lever in on poss. Plug box in weight 8 to 10 hours with box set at mfg 's starting settings. Should work like a charm.

I removed the cover that protects the freezing tubes, they were frozen solid,used my heat gun to melt away the ice, being very careful not to burn any wires. Then I removed the old heating coils,connected the new ones, replaced the cover and I was done. The thing that took the most time was melting the ice, you cant do it in a hurry because you may burn wires

First attempt was difficult. Part was different and instructions applied to previous part that did not have quick connect. Not clear where quick connect was to be used. Result no ice!second attempt used quick connect in reverse connections and now have plenty of ice. Combination of change in part appearence from previous one ,and different from instructions included with new part, resulted in confusion in installation. In the long run, it worked out well.

removed back sheet from inside of freezer unit. removed upper and lower coil brackets. undid clips and replaced coils. reattached wires to top , replaced back sheet.

The refrig. Is about 30 years old. The new solenoid looked and mounted nothing like the original. I driled holes in the frig and attach the solenoid with sheet metel screws. There were not enough fittings and hoses so I bought a braded metal hose to attach the ro line and the valve inlet. I used the parts in the kit to attach the water feed line. To the ice maker I did not try to stuff all the hoses and lines back into the cramped cavity in the frig. W ell how does it look? The solenoid sticks out a little and there are a lot of hoses behind the frig. I do not spend much time behind the frig so who cares. The ice maker is making ice!