AZS22000 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed 6 screws to get at broken part. Had to remember the disassembly sequence to properly reassemble. The whole process was relatively simple. I saved about $125 which would have been the cost of a repairman coming to the house.

Turned refrigerator and freezer controls to off, removed icemaker bin, unplugged icemaker plug and removed two screws holding icemaker in place and removed icemaker. removed screws holding auger motor and freezer compartment light plate, unplugged and set aside. Remover screws holding freezer coil cover in place and removed cover. Allowed coils to defrost completely and then removed screws that hold the two defrost heater coil mounting plates in place, unplugged the two wires that connect the defrost heater coils to the connector block that is located above the freezer coil. Remove the entire defrost heater by working the connecting wires out from along side the freezer coil. Remove the clips that hold the old defrost heater elements to the mounting plates. Install new heating elements into the two mounting plates with the clips. Reinstall the two mounting plates to brackets on freezer coil and reinstall connecting wiring up to connector block and reconnect them. Reinstall freezer coil cover, icemaker auger motor and freezer compartment light plate, and icemaker and bin to complete job. Due to the confined space in the freezer compartment, reinstalling the freezer coil cover and light plate was difficult as I could only use one arm at a time resulting in many dropped screws.

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

Had to cut the old part off with dremel then just install new part and put back in refrigerator. It is a good thing to know that the Yoke is a left threaded. Thanks James from Pineville.

Turn off refrig water supply, remove cardboard rear lower cover, disconnect two plastic lines (one for icemaker, the other for in-the-door water dispenser) and one copper fitting (supply line). Replace valve (mounted with one screw), reconnect, test for leaks.

The valve I was so sure was bad wasn't, replacing it didn't solve my problem. Turned out to be a frozen up icermaker water feed tube at the top rear of the refrig. The Fix: heat a metal rod of appropriate size in boiling water or with a hair dryer, poke it gently up into the water drop tube (sticks out just above the rear of the icemaker) from the inside and melt out the ice plug. Be sure to test this tube if you have the same problem, you should be able to disconnect the line on back of the refrig and blow air through the tube if it's clear. Saved the valve anyway for a spare.

I removed all covers then removed screws from element and disconnected wires and removed it.
when installing the new heater I payed close attention to the routing of thw wires to insure that the terminals were connected properly. I then replaced all covers and turned the frig on and in a couple of hour it was working great again

Removed drive assembly end of ice bin using socket wrench to get to old ice bin drive ring. Pull drive sssembly back to get ice bin ring out of the other end of ice bin. Installed new ice bin ring and and reinstall drive assembly end.

I took Ice maker off and found that water was continuously dripping from water line in to icemaker, I replaced valve and that solved the problem.

looked a website removed part found broken item order and installed in 15 minutes, easy simple fix very low cost change

rl

replaced the ice cube tray

Unplug the Frig and left the freezer side total defrost. Mine was so frozen up, it took about 6 hours with the door open. I had a towel in the botton to catch all the water and ice that fell.

Removed all the shelving units. There are 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place. Loosen the 2 screws above the ice maker about 3 or so turns. Then remove the screw under the ice maker completely. Then lift the ice maker off of the 2 screws that you just loosened. Then with a small flat blade screwdriver, push the plastic clip that holds the connector of wires that plug into the ice maker.

Then remove the screws that hold the back plastic cover that conseals the coil.

Now you should see the coils. There is one heater unit in the middle and one at the botton. There is a screw on each side of the heater unit that you need to take out. They are screwed into a metal bracket that is part of the coil system. Once the screws are removed, you simply remove the heater units. They are plugged in at the top of the coil system on a circuit board. Unplug them from there, (one of the spades connector was slightly bigger then the other, so I new where to plug them back in). Fish all the wire and heater untis out and you are ready to re-oinstall the new units.

Getting the wires back up through the coils was tricky, but I was able to do it.

The hardest thing was working inside the freezer unit. It is not very wide and was sometimes hard to get both hand inside to work.

Remove the 3 screws and disconect the plug. The wiring harnes on the new Ice Make did not match so I use the wiring harness from my old unit. I pluged the new one in and screwed in the three screws and it was ready. I did have to wait a full 24 hours before the first 8 pieces of ice eject out.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.