NNS207JH Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Screw bulb in and place cover over bulb.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

unplug power! Remove the screws from lower panel on back of refrigerator. Lift wire mount out of back panel. Capacitor is mounted directly to the relay and overload switch located on the left side of the compressor. Remove the spring clip holding the capacitor in place and pull the old capacitor out. Plug in new capacitor and replace spring clip. Use vacuum to remove dust from drip pan and wipe fan blades clean. Replace wire into slot on back panel and replace screws. Remove front coil cover below freezer door. vacuum dust off coils and replace cover. Plug refrigerator in and enjoy cold beverages. Relay and overload kit were not required for this repair.

removed back sheet from inside of freezer unit. removed upper and lower coil brackets. undid clips and replaced coils. reattached wires to top , replaced back sheet.

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

I removed the cover that protects the freezing tubes, they were frozen solid,used my heat gun to melt away the ice, being very careful not to burn any wires. Then I removed the old heating coils,connected the new ones, replaced the cover and I was done. The thing that took the most time was melting the ice, you cant do it in a hurry because you may burn wires

Pull box out ""unplug box"" empty frezer including storage baskets,place ice maker in off remove ice cube box, do not remove ice maker, useing nut driver loosen side rail screws about 1/4"slide basket rails in or out and pull to center of box should slip off screws, remove light bulb cover & bulb, remove 4 screws holding ice worm drive motor "" hold "" will fall it is atached to a electrial plug un plug and lay aside,unscrew back panle screws 4 left 4 right on back cover, " remove hiden screw at top center of back panel and pull up and pry out at bottom silde out downwerds,remove cross plates one center one bottom these hold defoster bars, unwind wires center defroster bar somewhat difecult bottom one just slide down unplug from panel at top behind where ice cube drive was located, replace new defroster assm reasemble defroster bars into cross bars wind in & plug up new wires behind cooling fins being carefule not to cut or nick wires of bend cooling fins replace screws,wires are 1 small plug 1 large,reinstall back panle top center screw first don't tighten aline side screw holes replace side screws then tighten top screw. Replace drive motor being sure to conect,replace bulb,bulb cover,side railes,bens,ice cube box & put ice maker lever in on poss. Plug box in weight 8 to 10 hours with box set at mfg 's starting settings. Should work like a charm.

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

Pull refrigerator out take off bottom cover. Take off metal strap with pliers easy to do. Pry off relay and overload. Oh yea unplug refrigerator first. Put on new parts done simple fix for anyone. Cheaper than repair man parts 75.00 $ not 300 - 400 .

my 17 year old son actually repair it ...it took him all about 5 minutes to install the part and put that refrigerator cover back on ...very easy fix and save me a bundle of cash ...thank you very much and I will be doing more business with you

Replaced the "Run Capacitor. The non-rythmic clicking associated with the compressor coming on continues. The problem was obviously not the Run Capacitor". I don't know what to do next. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phillip