AS22M8DA Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

This was a very easy repair. Of course start by unplugging the power cord. Take out the lower freezer drawer. Unplug the wiring harness from the ice maker at the rear of the freezer. Undo 3 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. The ice maker will come right out. You don't have to undo any water connections, the feed tube just slides into a guide in the ice maker. Once the ice maker is out, unplug the harness from the old one and snap it into the new one. Same with the cover. Reassemble in reserse order. Plug the power cord back in and wait a couple of hours for the familiar sounds of ice cubes falling into the tray.

Replaced ice ice maker using
All of the instructions on the website.
Very easy. A couple of the screws I had
To feel for because I couldn't gety big head
In the freezer far enough to see them.
Very simple and only took about 15 minutes.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

removed part., got number, went online,found part, ordered part, paid for part, replaced part.
works great. !

pulled out old socket and replaced supposed to be a duel socket but no longer exists

Took under 5 minutes. Removed two screws and unplugged the wire bundle from refrigerator. Removed old unit. Put old wire bundle on new unit. Plugged wire bundle back into refrigerator and remounted the new ice maker. Could not have been easier. Watched the video first, it was very helpful.

remove 3 screws,rotate assembly,depress lock on wire harnass connector,un plug harnass.remove old assembly,remove and transfer side cover and steel wire at front of assembly,connect harnass to new assembly,rotate into place,aling screw holes and install 3 screws.flip front steel wire down and wait for about 1 hour,first tray of ice will fall..all done.

to easy to describe, remove 3 screws and a wire plug then install new unite.
Works great
Thanks

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Unplugged the power, removed old icemaker by removing 3 screws and unplugging a small wire harness

Then i moved the wire harness off the old one to the new one, moved the end cover over to new one and plugged the harness back in and screwed it back in and turned it on

ALL FIXED!

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them

read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take

in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked


- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...

- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)

- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it

-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

had to saw off the shaft to get the yoke off and tap the holes for the 8/32 screws. all holes should have been tapped by the factory. Other than these problems, everything else went pretty good.