HMG21314-0A (BT08A) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the Frig and left the freezer side total defrost. Mine was so frozen up, it took about 6 hours with the door open. I had a towel in the botton to catch all the water and ice that fell.

Removed all the shelving units. There are 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place. Loosen the 2 screws above the ice maker about 3 or so turns. Then remove the screw under the ice maker completely. Then lift the ice maker off of the 2 screws that you just loosened. Then with a small flat blade screwdriver, push the plastic clip that holds the connector of wires that plug into the ice maker.

Then remove the screws that hold the back plastic cover that conseals the coil.

Now you should see the coils. There is one heater unit in the middle and one at the botton. There is a screw on each side of the heater unit that you need to take out. They are screwed into a metal bracket that is part of the coil system. Once the screws are removed, you simply remove the heater units. They are plugged in at the top of the coil system on a circuit board. Unplug them from there, (one of the spades connector was slightly bigger then the other, so I new where to plug them back in). Fish all the wire and heater untis out and you are ready to re-oinstall the new units.

Getting the wires back up through the coils was tricky, but I was able to do it.

The hardest thing was working inside the freezer unit. It is not very wide and was sometimes hard to get both hand inside to work.

The old water valve leak required me to purchase this new complete part. After shutting off the water supply, disconnect the supply line, take out the old water valve by disconnecting the "plug" from the refrigerator, and disconnect the plastic water line going into the ice maker. Then just reconnect the new water valve by plugging it into the 2 pronged receptacle, note to be sure to write down which wire goes into which input when disconnecting the old valve. Then hand tighten the plastic tube into the valve. Next attach your water supply line into the new water valve, tighten this supply line as you would any plumbing supply line with a couple of adjustable wrenches and some teflon tape at the connection. I would also recommend at this point, if the compression fitting on your supply line was like mine a bit old, to spend a couple bucks on a new fitting and put that on the supply line, since you don't want to worry about it being a good seal at the supply line point, once the repair is done. After checking for "no leaks" reattach everything to the rear of the refrigerator (make a note of the attachment before taking out the old valve) and see if your ice maker starts to make some ice. You will hear the valve feeding the water to the icemaker if all is properly setup.

Fridge has a top freezer. I unplugged the fridge and removed the lower panel in the back. I removed the two screws that hold the valve bracket to frame of fridge in lower right corner (facing fridge from back). I then disconnected the modular wiring plug and both the water supply and the hose to the icemaker.
i connected the power plug to the new part, reconneced the hose to the icemaker and reattached the bracket with the two screws into the frame of the fridge. finally, i reconnected the water supply and plugged in the fridge. In a few hours the icemaker was working like new. I figure i save about $100 or more by not having to call a repairman and it was easier than I had expected.

The most difficult part was determining what the problem was, was it the defrost timer, the themostat or the heater. Once I diagnosed the heater the ordering was easy. Installing it took about 30 minutes but waiting for the frig to cool to the point where the thermostat opened took a little longer than I thought. When I saw that orange glow from the heater I knew I saved myself a hundred buck.

Looked up the part and found it on PartSelect. I was exactly like the same as the part I had to replace, there for I didn't have to make any new adjustments to the part to fit. I also read the story by others that had the same problem on the website. I had anticipated the part was bad, because no water was getting to the tray. I ordered the part and did the repair pretty quick.

Removed all screws in rear panel & removed (this was easy) . unpluged heater wires & fished out not easy. Used string and 3/8" nut for weight, droped behind evaporator to pull elect wire from heater. ( this was not easy) replaced rear panel & all screws.

Checked the manuals and found the needed part. Having worked with solenoids before gave me an idea that it was the defective part. The valve would open when water was needed and you would hear this gushing sound. Water supplt was okay and the ice making unit was also working. Bought the part from this website, switched the unit and now the ice maker is working perfectly. This could not have been any easier. Make sure to keep your manuals handy!

Turned off water supply and electricity. Removed old valve by removing two 1/4 in nut screws and water supply line and the ice maker suppy line. Disconnected the electrical line.Reattached water supply line,the icemaker supply line and the electrical connector. Put valve back into refrigerator and attached the two 1/4 in nut screw. Turned on water supply and electricity. Bled water thru system and now have plenty of ice.

Unloading the freezer and removing the back panel were the most time consuming aspect of this repair. Many models only have 4 screws, but this one has 9, and being a side by side it was a tight fit to reach them. Once defrosted we tested the thermostat, found it "dead", and ordered a new one. The part came within 3 business days. Installing it took minutes, since we had not permanently screwed in the back panel again. We didn't want to reload everything until we knew things worked properly, so we didn't put everything back right away. We thought we had further problems as the freezer got really cold but the frig still didn't get down to temp. Turns out we just needed to reinstall the fan shield which we'd taken off along with other parts to access and check the vents. The fan shield must be in place to direct the cold air into the vent to the refrigerator. Duh! It was an oversight that once caught made total sense! Now all works fine on this 20 year old Maytag side by side!

The part could not be installed without home made angles which were attached to unit so that it would only protrude from back of refrigerator about 2" instead of 6".

Thought we'd try the Water Valve before replacing the ice maker. Ordered new valve online on Saturday, it arrived on Tuesday. I installed it twice in less than 30 mins. Had a little leak the 1st time, so I uninstalled it, trimmed up the water line with a box cutter and reinstalled without issue. No leak this time. Easy Peasy. My husband said "You're good, you." :)

Disconnect ac power line, disconnect power line going to the water valve. Turn water off atthe cockvalve. Disconnect water line to valve. Disconnect plastic tubing going in the valve. If plastic is old you may have to replace it to keep from leaking at the quick connect coupling. Connect water line and plastic tubling to new valve, connect power clips to new valve. Plug in the refrigertor and turn on water at the cock valve and your good to go

Followedinstructions that came with kit. Kit parts were unnecessary as new valve fit in exactly as old one had been. Quick connect for flow out of valve to maker was a surprise as no threaded connection present and no nut necessary; simiply push the line into place. Reconnect water line, check for leaks and refasten back covering. Instructions with kit contained an incorrect drawing of connecting water outflowline; a one page addition verbally gave correct info, but detailed step by step instruction for this one connection was confusing. Otherwise, could not have been easier; surely a do-it-yourself project.

The refrig. Is about 30 years old. The new solenoid looked and mounted nothing like the original. I driled holes in the frig and attach the solenoid with sheet metel screws. There were not enough fittings and hoses so I bought a braded metal hose to attach the ro line and the valve inlet. I used the parts in the kit to attach the water feed line. To the ice maker I did not try to stuff all the hoses and lines back into the cramped cavity in the frig. W ell how does it look? The solenoid sticks out a little and there are a lot of hoses behind the frig. I do not spend much time behind the frig so who cares. The ice maker is making ice!

removed back sheet from inside of freezer unit. removed upper and lower coil brackets. undid clips and replaced coils. reattached wires to top , replaced back sheet.