HMG214825A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

removed all three screws, disconnected power. then I switched out the plug assembly (mine had different male adapter. Then the Control Arm, new arm was to wide and took up to much space when it was fully extended. Put it back in reverse order, and within 5 hours it was making ice.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

very easy

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

I unpluged the refrig, removed the shelves and the back panel on the freezer side of the unit. This exposed the fan motor and fan blade. I removed two screws holding the fan unit in place, unpluged the wires connecting the fan unit to power, and then removed two other screws securing the fan motor to the bracket. I removed the fan motor blade from the old unit and installed it on the new fam motor. I replaced the fan unit into the bracket, pluged the wires back into the fan motor and secured the motor to the refrig. Replaced the back panel and shelves, pluged the refrig into the wall.....easy.

Thought we'd try the Water Valve before replacing the ice maker. Ordered new valve online on Saturday, it arrived on Tuesday. I installed it twice in less than 30 mins. Had a little leak the 1st time, so I uninstalled it, trimmed up the water line with a box cutter and reinstalled without issue. No leak this time. Easy Peasy. My husband said "You're good, you." :)

Unscrewed the right control knob. Removed the left temperature control knob (there is no screw holding it), removed one screw to rear of small panel then pried open from the rear of the small panel, there are two plastic tabs in front of the small panel holding it in place. Unscrewed the failed control unit and replaced it with the new one. Replaced the small panel and screw then the left side control knob, making sure of the alignment in the "off" position as the knob has to be pressured into a clamp arrangement on the cold control thermostat. Re-screwed the right knob into place, as well.

Followedinstructions that came with kit. Kit parts were unnecessary as new valve fit in exactly as old one had been. Quick connect for flow out of valve to maker was a surprise as no threaded connection present and no nut necessary; simiply push the line into place. Reconnect water line, check for leaks and refasten back covering. Instructions with kit contained an incorrect drawing of connecting water outflowline; a one page addition verbally gave correct info, but detailed step by step instruction for this one connection was confusing. Otherwise, could not have been easier; surely a do-it-yourself project.

Disconnect ac power line, disconnect power line going to the water valve. Turn water off atthe cockvalve. Disconnect water line to valve. Disconnect plastic tubing going in the valve. If plastic is old you may have to replace it to keep from leaking at the quick connect coupling. Connect water line and plastic tubling to new valve, connect power clips to new valve. Plug in the refrigertor and turn on water at the cock valve and your good to go

The part could not be installed without home made angles which were attached to unit so that it would only protrude from back of refrigerator about 2" instead of 6".

First attempt was difficult. Part was different and instructions applied to previous part that did not have quick connect. Not clear where quick connect was to be used. Result no ice!second attempt used quick connect in reverse connections and now have plenty of ice. Combination of change in part appearence from previous one ,and different from instructions included with new part, resulted in confusion in installation. In the long run, it worked out well.

Researched this problem on the web. Disassembled the main refrigeration unit (slide out freezer floor panel). The cooling coils were completely iced up. Thawed overnight. Tested the coil thermostat with a multimeter and discovered it worked. Note that the activation temp on this thermostat is 15 degrees Fahrenheit so the ice-water bath test on many web videos will NOT work. My test was in another refrigerator freezer compartment (everyone has two, right?). When the temperature went below 15 and stayed there for 15 minutes, the thermostat opened the circuit. Further investigation revealed that the defrost heater was burnt and shorted. Replaced the defrost heater only to discover that the defrost timer was also broken. After replacing the defrost timer and testing each component thoroughly, the refrigerator is back in service. Freezer maintains about 8 F and the main refrigerator stays at about 36. The unit cycles off properly and the defrost timer is correctly initiating a defrost cycle. Further, when the defrost heater is cycled on, the thermostat correctly shuts it off once the coils are defrosted. Watch the youtube videos. Find your parts and note their specifications so you can test them properly. And good luck.