HMG1902 (BK61A) Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

I unpluged the refrig, removed the shelves and the back panel on the freezer side of the unit. This exposed the fan motor and fan blade. I removed two screws holding the fan unit in place, unpluged the wires connecting the fan unit to power, and then removed two other screws securing the fan motor to the bracket. I removed the fan motor blade from the old unit and installed it on the new fam motor. I replaced the fan unit into the bracket, pluged the wires back into the fan motor and secured the motor to the refrig. Replaced the back panel and shelves, pluged the refrig into the wall.....easy.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Researched this problem on the web. Disassembled the main refrigeration unit (slide out freezer floor panel). The cooling coils were completely iced up. Thawed overnight. Tested the coil thermostat with a multimeter and discovered it worked. Note that the activation temp on this thermostat is 15 degrees Fahrenheit so the ice-water bath test on many web videos will NOT work. My test was in another refrigerator freezer compartment (everyone has two, right?). When the temperature went below 15 and stayed there for 15 minutes, the thermostat opened the circuit. Further investigation revealed that the defrost heater was burnt and shorted. Replaced the defrost heater only to discover that the defrost timer was also broken. After replacing the defrost timer and testing each component thoroughly, the refrigerator is back in service. Freezer maintains about 8 F and the main refrigerator stays at about 36. The unit cycles off properly and the defrost timer is correctly initiating a defrost cycle. Further, when the defrost heater is cycled on, the thermostat correctly shuts it off once the coils are defrosted. Watch the youtube videos. Find your parts and note their specifications so you can test them properly. And good luck.

First attempt was difficult. Part was different and instructions applied to previous part that did not have quick connect. Not clear where quick connect was to be used. Result no ice!second attempt used quick connect in reverse connections and now have plenty of ice. Combination of change in part appearence from previous one ,and different from instructions included with new part, resulted in confusion in installation. In the long run, it worked out well.

The refrig. Is about 30 years old. The new solenoid looked and mounted nothing like the original. I driled holes in the frig and attach the solenoid with sheet metel screws. There were not enough fittings and hoses so I bought a braded metal hose to attach the ro line and the valve inlet. I used the parts in the kit to attach the water feed line. To the ice maker I did not try to stuff all the hoses and lines back into the cramped cavity in the frig. W ell how does it look? The solenoid sticks out a little and there are a lot of hoses behind the frig. I do not spend much time behind the frig so who cares. The ice maker is making ice!

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

The part could not be installed without home made angles which were attached to unit so that it would only protrude from back of refrigerator about 2" instead of 6".

Disconnect ac power line, disconnect power line going to the water valve. Turn water off atthe cockvalve. Disconnect water line to valve. Disconnect plastic tubing going in the valve. If plastic is old you may have to replace it to keep from leaking at the quick connect coupling. Connect water line and plastic tubling to new valve, connect power clips to new valve. Plug in the refrigertor and turn on water at the cock valve and your good to go

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.