HMG2294-27A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- David from Kalamazoo, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer and Frig was not cooling down. The freezer side was all froze up on the coils.
Unplug the Frig and left the freezer side total defrost. Mine was so frozen up, it took about 6 hours with the door open. I had a towel in the botton to catch all the water and ice that fell.
Removed all the shelving units. There are 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place. Loosen the 2 screws above the ice maker about 3 or so turns. Then remove the screw under the ice maker completely. Then lift the ice maker off of the 2 screws that you just loosened. Then with a small flat blade screwdriver, push the plastic clip that holds the connector of wires that plug into the ice maker.
Then remove the screws that hold the back plastic cover that conseals the coil.
Now you should see the coils. There is one heater unit in the middle and one at the botton. There is a screw on each side of the heater unit that you need to take out. They are screwed into a metal bracket that is part of the coil system. Once the screws are removed, you simply remove the heater units. They are plugged in at the top of the coil system on a circuit board. Unplug them from there, (one of the spades connector was slightly bigger then the other, so I new where to plug them back in). Fish all the wire and heater untis out and you are ready to re-oinstall the new units.
Getting the wires back up through the coils was tricky, but I was able to do it.
The hardest thing was working inside the freezer unit. It is not very wide and was sometimes hard to get both hand inside to work.
Removed all the shelving units. There are 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place. Loosen the 2 screws above the ice maker about 3 or so turns. Then remove the screw under the ice maker completely. Then lift the ice maker off of the 2 screws that you just loosened. Then with a small flat blade screwdriver, push the plastic clip that holds the connector of wires that plug into the ice maker.
Then remove the screws that hold the back plastic cover that conseals the coil.
Now you should see the coils. There is one heater unit in the middle and one at the botton. There is a screw on each side of the heater unit that you need to take out. They are screwed into a metal bracket that is part of the coil system. Once the screws are removed, you simply remove the heater units. They are plugged in at the top of the coil system on a circuit board. Unplug them from there, (one of the spades connector was slightly bigger then the other, so I new where to plug them back in). Fish all the wire and heater untis out and you are ready to re-oinstall the new units.
Getting the wires back up through the coils was tricky, but I was able to do it.
The hardest thing was working inside the freezer unit. It is not very wide and was sometimes hard to get both hand inside to work.
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- Customer:
- Ivanka from Atlantra, GA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
burned oven bulb
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
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- Customer:
- Shirley from Las Vegas, NV
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burned out in upper oven
Screwed in light bulb and glass protector
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- Customer:
- peggy ann from forest city, NC
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
replaced oven lightbulb
very easy
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- Customer:
- clifford from dayton, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
small space to work in.
Removed all screws in rear panel & removed (this was easy) . unpluged heater wires & fished out not easy. Used string and 3/8" nut for weight, droped behind evaporator to pull elect wire from heater. ( this was not easy) replaced rear panel & all screws.
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- Customer:
- john from irvine, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refrigator would cool properly
The most difficult part was determining what the problem was, was it the defrost timer, the themostat or the heater. Once I diagnosed the heater the ordering was easy. Installing it took about 30 minutes but waiting for the frig to cool to the point where the thermostat opened took a little longer than I thought. When I saw that orange glow from the heater I knew I saved myself a hundred buck.
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- Customer:
- William from Schwenksville, PA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven light burnt out
1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes
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- Customer:
- Janet from Ada, MI
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
light bulb went out in my oven
My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.
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- Customer:
- Judith from Phoenix, AZ
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Bulb Replacement
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
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- Customer:
- Carey from Denton, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846, WP52085-29
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
No cooling on either side.
Having watched the Maytag technician perform this same repair a few years ago, I was sure I could do it myself! The take down was quite easy. The actual repair was a little more difficult, as there isn't much space to work in. Others have posted their procedures and mine was no different, so I won't repeat what has already been said, other than to add that when I installed the heater assembly, I dropped a length of string ( with a small nut on the end for weight) down the inside of the cabinet alongside the evaporator, and tied the wiring to the string and pulled it through to the top. That metal flange and those fins on the evaporator are very sharp! I'm not comfortable working in gloves, so if you are, I suggest you wear them... The thermostat was simple 'plug and play'! The refrigerator/freezer is working fine now. Thanks to y'all at PartSelect for your prompt shipping of the parts that I ordered.
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- Customer:
- Winston from West Orange, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Cooling coils frozen solid preventing cold air from circulating in freezer and refrigerator compartments.
I removed the cover that protects the freezing tubes, they were frozen solid,used my heat gun to melt away the ice, being very careful not to burn any wires. Then I removed the old heating coils,connected the new ones, replaced the cover and I was done. The thing that took the most time was melting the ice, you cant do it in a hurry because you may burn wires
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- Customer:
- James from Mc Alester, OK
- Parts Used:
- WP61001846
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Box Side Hot Frezer Working Fine
Pull box out ""unplug box"" empty frezer including storage baskets,place ice maker in off remove ice cube box, do not remove ice maker, useing nut driver loosen side rail screws about 1/4"slide basket rails in or out and pull to center of box should slip off screws, remove light bulb cover & bulb, remove 4 screws holding ice worm drive motor "" hold "" will fall it is atached to a electrial plug un plug and lay aside,unscrew back panle screws 4 left 4 right on back cover, " remove hiden screw at top center of back panel and pull up and pry out at bottom silde out downwerds,remove cross plates one center one bottom these hold defoster bars, unwind wires center defroster bar somewhat difecult bottom one just slide down unplug from panel at top behind where ice cube drive was located, replace new defroster assm reasemble defroster bars into cross bars wind in & plug up new wires behind cooling fins being carefule not to cut or nick wires of bend cooling fins replace screws,wires are 1 small plug 1 large,reinstall back panle top center screw first don't tighten aline side screw holes replace side screws then tighten top screw. Replace drive motor being sure to conect,replace bulb,bulb cover,side railes,bens,ice cube box & put ice maker lever in on poss. Plug box in weight 8 to 10 hours with box set at mfg 's starting settings. Should work like a charm.
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- Customer:
- John from Niles, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP52085-29
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Refrigerator not cooling
Unloading the freezer and removing the back panel were the most time consuming aspect of this repair. Many models only have 4 screws, but this one has 9, and being a side by side it was a tight fit to reach them. Once defrosted we tested the thermostat, found it "dead", and ordered a new one. The part came within 3 business days. Installing it took minutes, since we had not permanently screwed in the back panel again. We didn't want to reload everything until we knew things worked properly, so we didn't put everything back right away. We thought we had further problems as the freezer got really cold but the frig still didn't get down to temp. Turns out we just needed to reinstall the fan shield which we'd taken off along with other parts to access and check the vents. The fan shield must be in place to direct the cold air into the vent to the refrigerator. Duh! It was an oversight that once caught made total sense! Now all works fine on this 20 year old Maytag side by side!
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- Customer:
- Grant from Alexandria, VA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light bulb failure
Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from Kewadin, MI
- Parts Used:
- 12001414
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Ice maker did not make ice
This review would not be helpful if limited to this part. So I will describe the whole repair. The ice maker was first receiving too much water. This resulted in huge cubes and water dripping out of the ice maker compartment. I tried reducing the amount of water using the valve to the supply line. But then the ice maker stopped making ice. I jumped to the conclusion that the solenoid water valve needed to be replaced. The new valve was easily replaced, but no water was delivered to the ice maker. I then went to the web site and saw that 87% of the time it was the ice maker itself that needed to be replaced. I ordered one and it arrived quickly. Installing it was easy although I might never had figured out how to remove the electrical supply line to the old unit if I hadn’t watched the video. After installation no water went to the ice maker tray.
I had read a review saying that the supply line had frozen where it went into the ice maker. To check out that possibility I removed the line from the solenoid valve and tried to blow air through it. No air would pass. So I removed the ice maker so I could get at the possible ice obstruction. I repeatedly inserted a knife honing steel which I heated and reheated in hot water. Finally I heard water dripping to the floor from the supply line which I had left detached from the solenoid valve. Then I hooked everything up and ice making proceeded nicely. If the solenoid valve ever needs replacing, I have a extra one.
I had read a review saying that the supply line had frozen where it went into the ice maker. To check out that possibility I removed the line from the solenoid valve and tried to blow air through it. No air would pass. So I removed the ice maker so I could get at the possible ice obstruction. I repeatedly inserted a knife honing steel which I heated and reheated in hot water. Finally I heard water dripping to the floor from the supply line which I had left detached from the solenoid valve. Then I hooked everything up and ice making proceeded nicely. If the solenoid valve ever needs replacing, I have a extra one.
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