HMG19956C Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed control knobs and a couple of screws and forced the assembly down enough to remove the old thermostat, and insert the new one. Lucky me it was a identical replacement item. Job took about an hour.

First you must unplug the refrigerator, then remove the top hinge and freezer door, then you must remove the middle hinge to remove the refrigerator door, after that there are 4 screws located in the refrigerator compartment that must be removed that are holding the plastic control knob trim in place. When you remove these screws and drop the trim piece you can unplug the wiring on it, to completly remove it, next right above the plastic trim previously removed there is a metal trim with 3 screws holding it in place they will be removed now. Now you need to remove all of the shelving in the freezer compartment these pieces will just snap out , at the lower left and right sides of the freezer compartment there are two plastic tips that are attached to the main plastic body of this compartment they will need to be snapped out from behind the metal body of the refrigerator this can be done with a flat head screwdriver. Now pull straight out on the plastic body and it should come out , this will expose an insulating cover over the freezer coil where the defrost heater is located,if this is covered with ice you will need a heat gun which is a overgrown hair dryer basically. To melt the ice you will have to remove a insulating cover that is located behind the previously removed front metal trim it will come out by gently snapping it out of place, use caution during this step so not to break the cover in half. This will expose the front of the freezer coil and you can now use the heat gun to melt the ice, keep a check on the drain pan beneath the refrigerator as it will have to be emptied depending on the amount of ice build up. As the ice melts it should release the top cover of the coil and this will lift out of place also again use caution when removing the cover. With the coil exposed melt the remaining ice, if you look in the coil you will see the defrost heater, if the glass tube on the heater is broken please use extreme caution so you will not get cut by it , now you can unplug each wire from each side of the heater you may need a pair of pliers for this. when the wires are unplugged you can now lift out the bad heater again use caution if the glass is broken. There is a gaurd over the heater that will have to be removed by sliding it off the end wires when you have this off, slide it over the wires on the new element, now gently install the new heater back in the coil reconnect the 2 end wires and make sure they are connected good. you can now assemble all of the covers and parts in the reverse order you removed them, when assenbly is complete plug the refrigerator back in and in about three hours or so you should here the fan and compressor stop and the unit should go into a defrost cycle during this you should here the water running to the drain pan as it melts.

This was an easy fix. The old one had cracked probably from the frige being left out in cold weather. Just remove the back cover. Unscrew the water line and two plastic lines and unplug the two plugs. Then remove a single screw that holds the valve in place and put on the new one and reattach everything. Good idea to recut the ends of the tubing to remove old crimp.

Due to some deformity of the gasket, it didn't seal all the way around. The instructions suggested using a heat light to warm the gasket with the door open. That didn't work too well so I closed the door and used a heat gun lightly in the areas it didn't seal. That worked great to soften the gasket so the magnet in the gasket could pull it gasket tight to the refrigerator. I let it cool with the door closed and it now seals perfectly.

Most importantly make sure you get the wrinkles out of the gasket, a step we did not follow exactly, so we ended up having to work the seal a lot more to make it fit properly which of course made the repair take longer than needed. Other than that no problems here

Very easy. Pull out refrig from wall to access the rear, turn off ice water line and Unplug refrig from wall outlet. Take socket and unscrew the one (1) tap holding the unit.
Remove the electric conections, pulling out from unit (there is nothing holding it in place but friction).
Remove the main water tube (have papber towel for water drip, there will be some)
Remove the two water tubes on top of unit (noting which tube goes to which relay)
Reconnect electric connectors to the new unit, reonnect water tubes to the new unit, screw down the new unit.
Turn water on and plug refrig back into AC outlet.
That's it, 20-30 min.

First I unplugged the refrigerator. Next item was the ice-maker; remove (3) screws and unplug it from the back wall. Third task is remove the (4) screws that attach the back wall of the freezer compartment. Lift the wall up enough to dislodge the center cooling shaft that the fan rides in and remove the rear wall. The last item is the fan motor which is attached to the freezer wall by (2) screws and (3) wires which are easily removed. Change out the motor and reassemble freezer compartment .

took nut driver and removed screw holding valve to refrigerator removed valve. Swapped water lines from old valve to new valve,plugged in selonoid wire harness to new valve reattached the water valve to referigerator and turned water on and forgot it. No leaks,ice and water in 24 hrs.

removed part., got number, went online,found part, ordered part, paid for part, replaced part.
works great. !

Turn off refrig water supply, remove cardboard rear lower cover, disconnect two plastic lines (one for icemaker, the other for in-the-door water dispenser) and one copper fitting (supply line). Replace valve (mounted with one screw), reconnect, test for leaks.

The valve I was so sure was bad wasn't, replacing it didn't solve my problem. Turned out to be a frozen up icermaker water feed tube at the top rear of the refrig. The Fix: heat a metal rod of appropriate size in boiling water or with a hair dryer, poke it gently up into the water drop tube (sticks out just above the rear of the icemaker) from the inside and melt out the ice plug. Be sure to test this tube if you have the same problem, you should be able to disconnect the line on back of the refrig and blow air through the tube if it's clear. Saved the valve anyway for a spare.

Reattaching the kickplate clip was easy, but the tab that holds in place was broken. It would slide back when the kickplate was installed. I fashioned a replacement tab out of a piece of 3/32 aluminum bent into a U with the hammer. To hold it in place I drilled and tapped one hole and used a 6-32 machine screw.

unplug the refrigator, remove everything from
frezer compartment. remove ice maker three screws and un plug. remove rear panel 4 screws
remove motor bracket from rear panel 4 screws
unplug motor . replace motor and reasemble in
reverse order. the new motor is very quiet.

I took Ice maker off and found that water was continuously dripping from water line in to icemaker, I replaced valve and that solved the problem.

I had to find a couple screws that would match the clips and kickplate. I screwed on the clips. The kickplate snapped on perfectly.

Well the repair was not bad the package came in real fast thank you very much. Doing the work was real hard took about an hour to do and then putting it on I do not think it stayed on good still using some duck tape to hold it and the top and bottom are real fat and will not sink on in. I do not know what to do or what I did wrong. I am kind of afraid to take it off because it might rip. Some of it ripped as I was putting it on too. Do you have any ideas of what I can do or what might be my problem? Thanks.

Sincerley,


Dustin Takla