RS610PXGW1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

After a couple hours of frustration, I finally called the repair man and had it fixed properly. All the instructions I got from the the various websites didn't really address my model. Just getting the door off the over (with my type of lock) was a challenge. It is really important to have the proper tools for this job and I didn't have them. Live and learn.

I used the manufacturers' manual as a guide and removed the door. This was not straightforward because the diagram was overly simplified. Once I figured it out, door removal was quite easy. I then took the door apart layer by layer (there are several), cleaning each part with oven cleaner, or detergent as I went. If not for cleaning, the repair would have taken half the amount of time. I then put the door together again and re-attached it. This was a little bit tricky but I got it to snap into place on the second attempt. Overall, this is a fairly easy repair and I do not have too much to add to existing comments. I would add the following: (1) Use work gloves to remove the broken glass. In fact, use gloves to handle all glass. (2) Take your time when re-assembling the door because the layers have to be lined up accurately for the screws to take and hold all of the layers together. In summary, I am very pleased with how this repair went. For 90 minutes of my time and $45, I was able to get the oven looking like new again.

I did not remove the door. After removing as much broken glass as possible, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the door, pushing a bit against the plastic oven vents so the screwdriver could fit into the screw heads. I then removed the two screws on top of the oven door. This releases the outside of the door. I then removed the two bottom screws holding the bracket that holds the piece of glass fitting into the slot at the top. I bent back the tabs with pliers, cleaned the last bit of glass out of the slots, and then put the new glass in and bent the tabs back as much as possible. It actually was pretty tight. The rest is just cleaning and putting the pieces back together. Just be careful as the four screws that go into the top and bottom of the door are actually different from the other screws. Just make sure you keep all screws separated and use them as removed. Not too bad, just time consuming.

Did not want to remove the pin from the new hinges, so found a proper rod and cut off two half inch pins to use in removing the door. followed the manual instructions. Took all of the screws out but did not notice that the four inside face screws were machine screws while all others were sheet metal screws. Had a little difficulty in getting the four machine screws to engage the bottom holes of the new hinges. Reinstalled the door and all works fine. It is too bad that we could not purchase just a new hinge spring instead of the entire unit. It is kind of a waste. I suspect that self cleaning ovens generate a very high heat which eventually weakens the hinge. The upper oven will likely fail in the future, but at least I know how to repair it.

good, could you please e-mail me a copy of inv.,lost track of mine and need copy for re-imbersment

Removed old indicator light, after turning off electricity, installed terminals on new indicator light as I was doing this I noticed that female spade terminals had extended fastening ends on them, making an extremely unsafe condition. I replaced those terminals with insulated female spade terminals thus eliminating the possibility of a short in the future.

screwed in the new oven light

replaced them

It appears that the indicator light is a "pop-up" replacement but you can't get it to fit through the mounting hole without it breaking up...Here's the easier way: 1st remove the power to the cooktop...2nd remove the 4 burners and the bowls.. 3rd remove the 2 front small sheet metal screws that are on the front flange where you removed the front bowls...4th gently lift the front end of the cooktop whereby you'll have access to the indicator light...5th remove the 2 wires from the light and with your fingers or long-nose pliers squeeze the mounting flanges on the sides of the light and pop it out from the top...Now you can replace the light---it's "keyed" on one side so it'll fit in only one way...Reattach the 2 wires on the bottom of the light....Reverse the disassembly procedure and restore the power....Let there be "light" when you turn on any of the burners !!!

Hardest part was getting the oven door off. Since I bought this house with oven already in place, I had no owner's manual. Tried to get it off with tips found on this site, no go. Went online and found the manual which said to insert allen wrench in holes in hinge, then lift up FROM THE BOTTOM. That is the key. Got door off, then found that replacing the inner glass is a multi step process that starts with the outside door, then multiple brackets to the next inside glass, then more braces to next glass, then finally you are at the broken (inside) glass.My advice would be to take pictures on cell phone or whatever of each level, so you know what goes where when you put it all back. I figured it out but would be faster with a picture. Anyway, got all together and the oven works fine, door looks great!.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Was able to unplug the old burner and plug the new one in. Very easy.

took out door hinges, slightly close door, lift upwards, remove clips on bottom of door, remove screws from 2 inner layers of glass, insert new glass, perform revers order reassembly..cleaned all inner glass, and surrounding parts prior to reassembly

Removed the door from the unit. Set the door face down on a work surface. Remove the screws and put them in a separate place from the rest of the screws (They are a different style of screw). Turn the door back over. Remove the two clips at the bottom on the door. The door front will slide down. Set the door front off to the side with the two clips and the screws. Remove the screws securing the brackets for the next level of glass (Mark which it the top and which is the bottom bracket. Place the glass, brackets and screws together. Remove the next glass/bracket assembly and set it aside with the screws. Lift the inside metal glass retainer and set it aside. Remove the old glass and install the new glass and reverse the order of the disassembly process.

first you have to remove door, so open door all the way, pull back the lever on each hinge, then close door all the way, it will be able to be pulled straight out then, but be careful, its a heavy sucker. I layed a blanket out on table and layed door on blanket, start by taking out screws around the edges of door, keep these in separate container.(don't lose any). now you need to separate the door in half, this can be a lil difficult, mine had grease build up on one end that I had to be scraped . pay special attention to how the brackets go and how the door comes apart, this info will be needed later, now that door is in half, you will need to start taking the 2 other layers of glass out, please pay attention how you take apart, it has to be replaced exactly right. take pics if needed. when you get to the broken glass, take out carefully, and place glass over opening, centered well. now you have to start replacing the other layers, the replaced broken glass is kept in place by pressure, once you get the other glass layers in do not lift up door, you will need to put in the screws under the door, one of which tightens the hinge base to the door, these are the screws that tighten the replaced glass, I found this out the hard way and had to undo the whole thing again to recenter the glass, once tight, just keep going backwards replacing the other half of door. once you do this you will either say, wow that stunk, or wow that was easier than I thought. if you don't have patience, then take the door and glass to a repair shop, because you are dealing with 3 pieces of glass costing 50.00 each. be smart.