SF315PEGQ5 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I didn't do it, but I suggest putting down newspaper to keep from having to clean up all the charred remains that will inevitably fall from the parts you have to remove. First, unplug the thing so you don't shock yourself. I removed all the racks for easy access to the drip pan, which had to be removed by unscrewing two screws. Then there was a cover over the flame area that also required two screws being removed. The coil had two screws connecting it, but first I had to pull out the drawer at the bottom, crawl under the unit and unplug the coil. I removed the two screws from the old coil and replaced it with the new one, but first I had to get back under and plug in the new coil. I was unprepared for the virtual small animals that were under the stove, so I took some time to clean out that mess. I tested the thing to make sure it would work, and it did. I put all the pieces back in reverse order and had some really good baked chicken for dinner. I also recommend using gloves, as all the soot is hell on your nice manicure.

Our existing gas stove burner igniter had broken on one of the four burners. I therefore obtained a replacement igniter and mounting screw form PartSelect.com which were indeed perfect replacement parts. However, I could not remove the burner plates from the top of the stove since they were basically welded into position by years of heat. I therefore followed instructions as submitted by a previous customer (thank you Michael of Bloomington, Il), snapped open the stove lid retainer clips, and then lifted the stove surface about 4 inches. Through that opening I was able to reach the underside of the involved burner. Unfortunately, I could not unscrew the existing broken igniter mounting screw and therefore had to break off the already broken igniter and grind down the remaining mounting screw using a drill grinder since the screw was basically welded into place. Once I did that, I was then able to install the new igniter using a separate unused screw hole already in place right beside the old previous mounting screw. With that done, the new igniter works perfectly and the burner works just like new. It was however a lengthy process over two hours long because of the glitches described above. Nevertheless I'm very pleased that the parts were perfect and the repair is complete.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Igniter is in the back bottom of the oven. I had to take off the top of the broiler compartment which has 3 screws. Unplugged the igniter which has two small screws and used a magnetic nut driver. installed the new one. It took 30-45 minutes.

I basically followed the video. The hardest part of the repair was trying to squeeze behind the oven to remove the back plate. Also the original screws holding the igniter took a small Allen wrench that I didn't have so I used an adjustable wrench. One screw was a little difficult but eventually got it tightened. Otherwise this was an easy repair like other reviewers have said.

Replaced bottom trim included in kit.
Installed side door trim.
While trying to slide glass front in place both plastic side trims broke.
Had to use already broken door trim and glued in. Just hope when use oven glue doesn’t melt and will have to replace entire oven.

Took knob off ordered new one put it in place

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

The parts I got were exactly like the original knobs and were a breeze to snap on. Range working great again . The wife is happy again lol

1. Removed old knobs and the adapter piece with pliers ( I tried using cheap universal knobs from Lowe’s first that were garbage)

2. Push the new knobs onto the shaft and voila. Perfect fit and range looks new again. Replaced all 4 on my black whirlpool gas range

the research and diagnosis took much longer than the repair on this model. if i had the new igniter on hand, it would have been only about 15 mins.

Replaced the knob

pulled the stove out removed back cover, unplug then unscrew igniter. Mounted new igniter in place, plug it back in , put cover back on, put stove back in place. Took about 20 min. Very easy repair, thank you.

The brief comments on how to with the order was most helpful, no problems replacing frame. Quality is good I thought the price was very high for the parts, considering plastic and metal pieces, but then again compared to new stove reasonable. Remove pieces replace back in order removed.

Turn gas off at tank. Oven rack out. 2 screws out of flame spreader and remove. 2screws from ignitor. Pull oven out from location to access rear bottom cover. 2 screws out and unplug ignitor. Guess what ? Reverse order. Not worth paying gas company over 250 dollars.