YWFE521S0HS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Wrestled with it for ten minutes and then watched a youtube video on how to set the locks on the oven door hinges in order for the door to be installed. The video was instrumental

the door came apart fairly easy getting it all back together was another story lining up glass and panels that have already been heated was fun but its back together and working fine.... It should be noted that I have a warranty for the stove but the hoops I had to jump thru and the time it would take for the tech to come it was easier to do it myself!!

1. Pull range out from wall
2. Unplug range
3. Remove back cover using drill and screwdriver bit
4. Remove dial handle on affected burner dial
5. Remove two screws to unattach broken infinite switch
6. Disconnect wires from broken infinite switch
7. Reconnect wires to new infinite switch
8. Attach new infinite switch using two screws
9. Use pliers to snap off end of post to fit your burner dial, if necessary. It was on ours.
10. Reconnnect dial handle.
11. Reattach back cover using drill and screwdriver bit.
12. Plug range back in
13. Relocate stove against wall

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place

First, view videos to know what is an active door range problem.
Second, when you know the problem, see videos on you tube and be sure you will replace the right part
Third, I go to Part Select, see reference video for your problem if you need and buy the part on line, good price, very quick delivery.

removed 3 screws holding the strip and replaced with new strip

Pleaae prepopulate the manufacturer and part i purchased. I fix a lot of appliances so cannot expend the effort to decipher this.

Be well.

Just attached the glide to the drawer. It just popped in. No problem.
took about 5 minutes.

Watched a video first. The repair was easy.

I disconnected power cord from house current. Removed back panels (2). I then removed round knob on front of range. I then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in place. After doing that, I gently removed the actual switch itself from back of face panel. I then separated the 2 elements of the switch.

I took new replacement switch and reinstalled the 2 parts of switch and placed back into hole in face panel. I reinserted the 2 front screws that holds the switch in place. I put the selection knob back on. However, the knob does not fit tightly. The shaft on the switch itself is to long, but the switch works fine. You do not even know that knob sticks out further than before. I plugged unit back into house current and tested range element to see if it works. It did so with no problem. I then replaced rear panels and secured all screws back to their original location and that was all there was to it.

No problem. Was a fast and effective installation.

Unplug and pull out range.
Unscrew the back of the range with Phillips #2.
Unplug wiring harness from switch.
Unscrew the switch from the front of the range with P2 driver.
Install and plug in new switch.
Remove the spring steel knob retainer from shaft.
Cut off extra knob shaft with dremel to match others (there is a narrow segment at the proper length).
Reinstall knob retainer, knob, and range panels.

By hand screwdriver

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

Removed face plate (4 screws). Removed 2 screws holding manifold in place. Detached wires from the switch. No need to mark them - they don't have to go back on any particular terminal. Remove the switch from the manifold with an adjustable wrench. Replace with new switch (thread sealing compound on the new switch is sufficient - no need for teflon tape). Reattach wires and reassemble manifold and face plate. Easy fix!