YMER8880BB0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Anne from DREXEL HILL, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The bottom heating element was damaged and needed to be replaced.
Followed a video I found online showing how to replace the bottom bake element. It was very easy to do. I simply unplugged the over, removed the back wire cover and detached the damaged element connectors.
I then removed the bottom oven cover which conceals the element. Unscrewed and removed the damaged element and replaced it with the new one. Connected the wires to the new element and then Installed the bottom cover along with the back wire cover and plugged the oven back in. It was really this easy.
I then removed the bottom oven cover which conceals the element. Unscrewed and removed the damaged element and replaced it with the new one. Connected the wires to the new element and then Installed the bottom cover along with the back wire cover and plugged the oven back in. It was really this easy.
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- Customer:
- Gary from PLUM CITY, WI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven not keeping correct temp and sometimes would not relight when temp went dropped.t
Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.
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- Customer:
- Scott from Troy, IL
- Parts Used:
- W11562931
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
No problems encountered
It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Mifflinburg, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP3196548
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The Range took forever to achieve the proper heating temperature with an inability to maintain a steady heat
I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Killbuck, OH
- Parts Used:
- W10763667
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Drawer guides missingJust
Just follow included instructions.
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- Customer:
- Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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- Customer:
- Marsha from Clermont, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven not reaching temperature
Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place
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- Customer:
- Arthur from PAWLEYS ISL, SC
- Parts Used:
- WPW10391743
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
stove top electric burner switch would not regulate intensity of burner.
pulled stove away from wall. took back cover off by removing 10 screws. Identified switch number and ordered replacement switch. pulled knob off front and removed 2 screws from switch and pulled switch out. swapped switch wires and reinstalled switch, back cover and slid stove back into place. Very easy, the whole process took about 1/2 hour.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Salem, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPW10434452
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The dual element control switches were no longer regulating the burners properly (either on or off, no in-between)
1. Pull the stove away from the wall and unplug the stove from the 240 volt receptacle.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.
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- Customer:
- Tom from THE VILLAGES, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
After watching the video, I said to my wife that this is a simple installation. However, I’m looking at the screws, I did not have the correct screwdriver to remove the screws. I had to go out and buy that. After that, it was not a problem.
I first shut off the breaker, then, after pulling the stove away from the wall, I unplugged it. I removed the two screws in the back of the stove which came off easily. I removed the two screws inside the oven and removed the bottom plate. I noticed the heating element I was changing had braces along the bottom. I had to remove the two screws and removed the burnt out element. The new element did not have the braces the original element had, but it fit in perfectly. Then I replaced all the screws, plugged it in and turned on the breaker and it worked. The only thing that we noticed is there’s a clicking sound every time the temperature increases. Not sure what that is.
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- Customer:
- Annie S from RIDGEVILLE, SC
- Parts Used:
- WP3148953
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner did not always reduce heat when temp. Was lowered.
My husband unscrewed the bad switch and replaced with the new one.
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- Customer:
- Rosalind from APOLLO, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the oven temperature was not working right. I installed a new oven sensor. Works get now
Watch the video...
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- Customer:
- Paul from HARMONY, MN
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
temp level uneven
after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy
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- Customer:
- Eric from HUMBOLDT, SD
- Parts Used:
- W11047668
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dual burner right front not heating properly
Purchased new switch shut off breaker unscrew the back plate remove front knob and two screws that hold it on remove the two electrical clips from old switch then reinstall in reverse order. Also watched the youtube video before hand, great help!
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- Customer:
- lou ann from MARTINSBURG, WV
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element burned out
There is a good video on YouTube that shows exactly how to replace the bake element. Had mine fixed in 15 to 20 minutes. Saved me about $150 by not having to call repairman.
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