YMER8800DE0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

Watch the video...

I first shut off the breaker, then, after pulling the stove away from the wall, I unplugged it. I removed the two screws in the back of the stove which came off easily. I removed the two screws inside the oven and removed the bottom plate. I noticed the heating element I was changing had braces along the bottom. I had to remove the two screws and removed the burnt out element. The new element did not have the braces the original element had, but it fit in perfectly. Then I replaced all the screws, plugged it in and turned on the breaker and it worked. The only thing that we noticed is there’s a clicking sound every time the temperature increases. Not sure what that is.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

There is a good video on YouTube that shows exactly how to replace the bake element. Had mine fixed in 15 to 20 minutes. Saved me about $150 by not having to call repairman.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Purchased new switch shut off breaker unscrew the back plate remove front knob and two screws that hold it on remove the two electrical clips from old switch then reinstall in reverse order. Also watched the youtube video before hand, great help!

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.

Watched the video and realized this was something I could do myself...bear in mind I'm not exactly a handyman! Took me about 30min as the oven also needed some cleaning...my tenant definitely needs to use the self-cleaning!

I have to note, although the heating element was covered by Maytag's 10yr limited parts warranty, I decided to purchase from PartSelect since Maytag could not provide a ship date and I couldn't keep my tenant waiting! Supposedly Maytag had the part in stock but their warehouse was behind because of the pandemic...what a lame excuse! Almost a month later, Maytag has yet to ship the part! Needless to say, am very disappointed in Maytag's after sales and warranty program! I get the impression, they just wanted to pressure me to buy the new part!

Lastly, was very pleased and impressed by PartSelect's customer service! Their website was very easy to use, less expensive than buying direct from Maytag and the part was shipped same day! Thank you PartSelect!

Very easy followed instructions from a youtube video.

First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.

Followed the video on this site.

1. Pull the stove away from the wall and unplug the stove from the 240 volt receptacle.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.