YMER7765WS2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

1. Pull the stove away from the wall and unplug the stove from the 240 volt receptacle.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.

First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

Remove 2 screws inside oven holding element . Remove screws holding back panel. Plug wires (2) into new element.Install back panel . Done.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Diagnostics:
Turned off power to the range
Removed back panel of range to access the parts
Tested Oven element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Broiler element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Thermocouple with ohm meter - passed test
Conclusion: Control panel issue
Removed control panel connector that has the 2 wires that complete the circuit to the heating elements
This allows for testing the continuity across the control panel switch without 240 v power to the switch
Turned on power to the range
Pressed start on the oven front control panel
Can hear convection fan runs - passed test
Tested for continuity across the control panel switch - failed
Turned of power to the unit and ordered new control panel
Installation
Removed the 4 multi wire connectors running to the control panel
Removed the two screws holding the control panel in place
Installed new control panel, reconnected the wires and reinstalled the back panel
Repowered the stove and tested the oven and broiler - both heated

It took a view months, but well wort waiting for. My Stove is complete again, and I am very happy. Thank you for all your help.

I order the part here, the first part never arrived, it was an empty package, the second part was breaking, the glass support was missing. Broken from the vent trim, then I was tired of it so I just put back the original broken part with some super glue on it, lol

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.

Our repair was extrodinarily easy. As my husband was taking out the old element and the oven was off, the element heated up and actually burned him. He readjusted it and it refused to heat again. We figured at that point that there must be a short, so we never even opened the box with the new element. A short time later we decided to use the top of the stove for soup and a small fire started in the oven. We turned off the braker at that point and ordered a new oven.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.