JDS1450FP0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Sarah from Raleigh, NC
- Parts Used:
- W10833885
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven temperature was WAY off, sometimes 50 degrees.
Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.
The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.
I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.
The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.
I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.
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- Customer:
- Kathy from Midland, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element wasn’t heating properly.
I watched a video on google on how to replace the element and then looked on the internet to order the element. When the part arrived, I pulled the range out and unplugged it. Then I watched the video again and followed the techs instructions to remove the element and replaced it with the new one. It’s a very simple process that I think almost anyone can do . The online videos make the job easier because they show exactly the order of disassembly and assembly, and Part Select helped with finding the right part and shipping it in a timely manner. Thank you!
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- Customer:
- Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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- Customer:
- Peter from FREDERICK, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
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- Customer:
- Westley from MADISON, AL
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not heat
Opened the breaker for the oven. Verified the power was off. Removed the racks from the oven. Using a screw driver removed two screws in the back of the oven holding down the steam bake bottom of the oven, pulled up from the back to get the pan out. Removed the screw holding the front of the element in place. Removed the screw in the shiny metal of the element at the back. Gingerly pulled the element to the front and as the element stopped slightly turned the element to let the prints come out. That part was challenging to get the angle right so not to damage the wires. Using a small Phillips screw driver I pushed in on the connector latch on the terminal and then pulled the terminals off the element one at a time. Follow all the steps in reverse to install the new one.
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- Customer:
- Rodney from MC CONNELLSBG, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken lower heating element
Shut beaker off
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks
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- Customer:
- Jess from GAYLORD, MN
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Would not heat up
Unplug the appliance, remove the bottom cover inside the range and the cover in the rear to unplug the heating element. R&r the element, reinstall the covers and test for proper operation.
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- Customer:
- Doyce from AZLE, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Old element burned up
Took out the bottom tray and the back cover panel, unplugged the old element and plugged the new one in and reassembled
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- Customer:
- Anthony from FRUITLAND PK, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lower Element had gone bad. Not able to keep temp up.
1) unplugged rnage from wall
2) took off back plate to unhook electrical from element
3)took door off of range for ease of access
4) removed the 2 screws i the back of tha bottom panel
5) removed 1 screw in front and 1 screw in back to be able to remove old element.
6)remove element and replace with new one.
7) reinstalled both screws and the bottom panle.
8) connected electrical to new element
9) replaced back cover and plugged in unit to wall
10) put range back in place.
2) took off back plate to unhook electrical from element
3)took door off of range for ease of access
4) removed the 2 screws i the back of tha bottom panel
5) removed 1 screw in front and 1 screw in back to be able to remove old element.
6)remove element and replace with new one.
7) reinstalled both screws and the bottom panle.
8) connected electrical to new element
9) replaced back cover and plugged in unit to wall
10) put range back in place.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from SARANAC LAKE, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Electric oven was not heating up
I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.
The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.
Again thanks for the help.
The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.
Again thanks for the help.
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- Customer:
- Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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- Customer:
- Jon from LAKE WORTH, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element not working
I pulled the range out from the wall, then unplugged it from the wall outlet. I removed the oven door & set it aside. Removed the screws covering the rear wiring shield, then disconnected the 2 leads from the bake element. Unscrewed the screws holding the oven floor pan, then unscrewed the screws holding in the original element. Replaced it, screwed everything back together, and pushed the oven back against the wall. Took me about 30 minutes, and now the oven works as well as it did when we first bought it.
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- Customer:
- Gordon from BELDENVILLE, WI
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The Oven Baking element burned out from 5 years of use.
The You Tube video for replacing the Element was very useful. Let me know exactly how to proceed - it was easy.
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- Customer:
- Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
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