WFC150M0EB1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Problem I had was finding the right ones to fit the stove top. Burner pans that tell you will fit most stoves, do not. After I had paid over $20.00 for some that did not fit, I got on the internet, found you, ordered the replacement parts and had them within a few days. Put them in and there you go. A perfectly happy me and a nice looking stove again.

Unplugged appliance, removed the 2 screws that mount element. Unhooked the electric wires,with pliers.
Connected, the wires to new element replaced the 2 screws. And was done in about 9 minutes.

Watch the video...

Replaced switch. Works right now.

removed the heating element then removed the screw that holds the plug in on cut the two wires and reconnect the two wires and put back

took out the drawer by removing two fillips head screws, four more screws removed the drawer front. Two plastic push pins and the front panel was off. Put the new panel on secured it with the pins, attached it back on the drawer front, put in the screws and slid the drawer back in the stove, put the two screws back in, done deal!

Cut wires removed old plug,new plug in wire nuts on.Put heat on shrink tube done.
Less than 30 min.

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

Turned off power to range. Took back panel off to reveal all controls. Pulled off knob of bad control. Removed 2 screws from the front of the control. Pulled off wiring from back of old control. Took new control reversed procedure. Reinstalled back panel turned power on and tested new control. Total time about 20 minutes

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

very easy watched the howto you gave

Followed instructions on urine that you provided. Instructions were great.
Only problem had was the screw was hard to get loose on one due to oven usage from previous people but I got it after a bit and then fairly simple from there. Unplugged and plugged new element in. Works although seems to run a bit hotter than before.

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.

Unplugged the range. Opened the oven door and took out the shelves. Took the right screw out, but had trouble getting the left one out do to the age of the range. Unhooked the two wires and took the element out. Put the new one in and hooked up the two wires. Attached the two screws and checked to see that the element laid flat and then tighten screws. Closed the door and plugged the range back in and turned the oven on and it worked perfect.

REMOVE BACK OF RANGE, REMOVE BURNER KNOB. REMOVE SWITCH CONTROL REMOVE WIRES. REPLACE WIRES ON NEW SWITCH. INSERTED ALL WIRES REPLACE NEW SWITCH RE REPLACE ALL SCREWS. CHECK SWITCH. TURN BRAKER BACK ON. CHECK SWITCH FUNCTION. ALL IS FINE. PUT BACK ON RANGE SCREW IT IN PLACE. MOVE RANGE BACK IN IT POSITION.