4KWFC120MAW1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.

Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.

Easy.... UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE 240 VOLT OUTLET & READ THE DIRECTIONS THAT COME WITH THE NEW PART !! Removed upper rear cover panel 8 screws & removed panel, removed knob & 2 screws from front of control unit (on the control panel), pulled the control off the panel from the rear, removed the wires on the rear of control & connected them to the SAME terminals on the new control (one at a time). Then installed the new control by reversing the procedure above. Took about 15 minutes. IMPORTANT HINTS: 1) Make sure you save the little black pressure clip from the control stem on the new control, if you need to break-off the little part at the end of the stem. You will need to push the clip back into the recess on the new stem, in order for the knob to stay on the stem when you put it back on; 2) Use a needle-nose plier to pull the wire clips from the old control terminals & push them onto the same terminals on the new control, one at a time so the wiring is correct.

Tried to do it myself and broke the left trim piece. Use two people!

removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile

I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to come out and replace the wire.

I received my ordered in less than a week. It was great. The day I got them I remove the old burners and replaced them with the new ones. It took me about 3 minutes total. I was then able to cook my Christmas dinner with out any problems.

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Shut down breaker; remove stove back cover plate (8 screws); remove the control knob; remove knob screws (2); simply remove one wire at a time and replace the coresponding wire to the new control unit; remove the snap ring on the knob bar and snap off to fit the proper length; place the control unit in position and reinstall the 2 screws; reinstall the back panel; position stove and turn throw the stove breaker on; test the burner control.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

It was simple. Unscrewed to screws at the back of the oven. Slipped off the wire connectors then attached the wire connectors to the new part, put the screws back in and we were back in business.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.