GHSP84900 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

real easy one to take care of, when the drawer broke I thought it was more than what it really was, after looking at it and seeing the wheel was gone I ordered the part and it came very quick, drawer is now fixed.

All I had to do was unscrew the pyrex lens over the oven light and then remove the old gasket and replace it with the new one. Worked like a champ!

Never repaired an oven before, I just used a screwdriver and went slowly taking this over door apart to replace this glass. I just took piece by piece apart until the glass came out and retraced my steps to install the new glass. Sure glad I did this myself, a new convection oven stove would easily set me back 1,500.00 and......save a bundle on service call fees.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed the door just like you would do when cleaning the oven; I placed the door on a blanket on the kitchen table and carefully disassembled the door. There were more parts than I expected so keeping track of where everything went was important. I might add that without the use of my cordless variable speed drill motor removal of some of the screws would have been difficult. Adding the weight of the drill motor with sufficient push power I was able to tap the switch which "snapped" the screw loose. Don't think I could have done it with a hand type screw driver without stripping the head. Knowing your tools is very important.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

removed the worn out roller...inserted the new roller....tightened the nut...it was finished...this was without a doubt the most pleasent repair from start to finish..only took 3 days from the time i orderded the part to completing the repair...i would advise anyone to use " partselect.com" without hesitation

First, disconnected range.Removed two screws at each end under front edge of cooktop. Removed flourescent light, removed two screws holding aluminum back panel in place.Had assitant hold this panel up and out of the way. Removed two screws from each side at rear of cooktop. Lifted front of cooktop straight up allowing me to remove 4 aluminum cook top bracket supports held in place by one screw each. Removed frame and replaced in reverse order. This item should be stainless on black/stainless range so water would not cause rust where frame contacts cooktop.

Had already removed back covers and disconntedted power. When io received parts I replaced them in reverse oder I had removed them. Took me longer to replace back covers because of my bad diabetic hands. Thanks very much, yopu savbed me a bunch. God bless you and yours, god bless america.

Read all others' directions and suggestions. Screw loosening spray was essential to remove the bracket holding the broken piece. Print out the blow-up showing parts from website. Read directions on removing and replacing door in original manual. Lay oven door on counter top front side up with hinges hanging over edge. I prefer a manual screwdriver - less risk of stripping screws. Start by removing screws at bottom edge. Next, side strips and then top piece with handle. Removing layers, being careful to keep them in order and turned the right way. Note the center piece of glass is held in place only by the parts around it so everything has to be tight and aligned. Put back together in reverse order with replacement glass part. My 10+ year old oven is as good as new. BTW I am a 67 year old woman.

I read all the repair stories here. They gave me the courage to try it. I pulled the oven door out and up. I placed the door HANDLE SIDE UP on a pad on a table. I removed the screws from the bottom and sides and began disassembly. First the bottom, then sides. I came apart easily, I set the insulation aside, then removed the screws and bracket holding the glass. I cleaned all the parts and glass. I replaced the glass and insulation and put it back together in reverse order. I put the drill/driver clutch on low so as not to strip any screws. I checked for tightness with a hand screwdriver. I re-attached the door to the oven by pushing both tabs into oven simultaneously. It took a couple of tries. In all, the fix It wasn't too difficult. I was able to handle it all myself except that my wife helped with cleaning the parts and glass. Now it looks like new again.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model