WFG510S0AB2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

We replaced the part. It was pretty quick and easy to install.

Remove;
Bottom drawer- pull open and lift up slightly when fully open then pull the drawer the rest of the way out.
Unplug ignitor terminal- there is a small tang inside the terminal end that needed pressed out of the small hole of the ignitor, with a pick.
Oven racks.
Oven bottom- 2 long phillips screws at the back. lift the back up 1st then the front comes up and out.
Burner diffuser- 2 small phlilips at front (they only prevent the diffuser from sliding, they don't screw into anything). slide diffuser forward out of the notch then lift the front up. pull rear tabs out of the notches to completely remove.
Ignitor- two 8mm (5/16) bolts holding ignitor to burner. pull ignitor out of guide holes.
Reverse to install new ignitor.

Remove three screws, slid old trim piece off door. Slid new trim in place. Used ice pick to align screw holes and replaced screws. Total time about 15 minutes. Tip: used a bead of silicone sealer on the new trim strip to prevent moisture from causing new strip to rust.

Push knob onto rob.

Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

Turned off power to range. Removed the lower panel that was secured by two screws, as well as the metal cover beneath it also secured by screws.. Removed the two screws securing the igniter, and pulled apart the black tubing that secured the igniter. (I had to pull hard to get it apart). Plug the new end into that same black tubing. screw in the two screws to secure the new igniter (this is tricky because one screw is hard to reach) I laid something in the base to cover the holes so I wouldn't lose a screw if it dropped. Screw metal panel back in, followed by the lower oven panel.

took the handle off, replaces the side trim piece and replaced the handle. Very simple!

took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

Just took the bottom cover off the bottom of the stove, pulled the old igniter and put the new one on.

This did not solve my problem.
What do I need to do next?

Remove vent trim from oven and set oven glass to the side. Next remove handle from vent trim (two screws). Next place handle on new vent trim. Place glass in place, (it is held in place by bottom of oven door and vent trim). next place side trim in place and place that side of the vent trim and loosely tighten screw holding trim into place at top of the glass. Next place the other trim into place under the vent trim and tighten the screws on both sides.

Watched a video on you tube!
When I ordered the hinge it was recomended to replace both hinges. so I ordered two hinges not knowing that one of the hinges didn't have a spring. I ended up with an extra hinge.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.