WFE540H0ES0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Removed back cover on range, removed two wires attached to element, then removed element by taking three screws out holding it in place. Installed new element in reverse order of removal. Only problem was relay on control panel board was sticking, and had to tap on it with screwdriver to finally get the oven to preheat.

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.

The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.

Again thanks for the help.

I first shut off the breaker, then, after pulling the stove away from the wall, I unplugged it. I removed the two screws in the back of the stove which came off easily. I removed the two screws inside the oven and removed the bottom plate. I noticed the heating element I was changing had braces along the bottom. I had to remove the two screws and removed the burnt out element. The new element did not have the braces the original element had, but it fit in perfectly. Then I replaced all the screws, plugged it in and turned on the breaker and it worked. The only thing that we noticed is there’s a clicking sound every time the temperature increases. Not sure what that is.

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Purchased new switch shut off breaker unscrew the back plate remove front knob and two screws that hold it on remove the two electrical clips from old switch then reinstall in reverse order. Also watched the youtube video before hand, great help!

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

I removed the stainless steel front panel from the door after removing the door from the oven. The glass panel is stuck to the panel with 4 strips of double-sided tape. I first had to use some B'Laster PB Penetrating Catalyst (some solvent I found in my garage, as I could not find any WD-40 and the lockdown prevented me from going to Home Depot) to loosen the original tape strips. I removed them after soaking in the catalyst spray for about 5-10 minutes using a 1.25" metal putty knife. Once that was mostly removed, I used Goo Gone to remove the rest of the tape residue.

The original tape was about 3/8" thick and 1/4" wide. I have a large roll of double-sided tape in my garage, which is 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick. I tripled up the 4 strips so the glass would not bend when sandwiched between the stainless steel panel and door. Once the tape strips were down, I removed the adhesive cover and placed the glass panel on the steel panel. I reassembled the door, and mounted it back on the oven.

The hardest part was removing the old tape & residue. The oven works great now, and I'm glad I was able to get the glass from this site.

Took 2 screws holding vent trim to door removed 2 screws holding handle to vent trim, put handle on new vent trim put vent trim back on door

Very easy followed instructions from a youtube video.

Very Simple, I recommend pulling the old gasket in sections, and popping the new gasket metal holders in the holes as you go. You can't mess it up. For the ends, I tucked them in using a pair of needle nose pliers, but any small slender tool, such as a thin screwdriver, will work.

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.