WFE540H0AE1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

I removed the stainless steel front panel from the door after removing the door from the oven. The glass panel is stuck to the panel with 4 strips of double-sided tape. I first had to use some B'Laster PB Penetrating Catalyst (some solvent I found in my garage, as I could not find any WD-40 and the lockdown prevented me from going to Home Depot) to loosen the original tape strips. I removed them after soaking in the catalyst spray for about 5-10 minutes using a 1.25" metal putty knife. Once that was mostly removed, I used Goo Gone to remove the rest of the tape residue.

The original tape was about 3/8" thick and 1/4" wide. I have a large roll of double-sided tape in my garage, which is 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick. I tripled up the 4 strips so the glass would not bend when sandwiched between the stainless steel panel and door. Once the tape strips were down, I removed the adhesive cover and placed the glass panel on the steel panel. I reassembled the door, and mounted it back on the oven.

The hardest part was removing the old tape & residue. The oven works great now, and I'm glad I was able to get the glass from this site.

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.

Watched the video and realized this was something I could do myself...bear in mind I'm not exactly a handyman! Took me about 30min as the oven also needed some cleaning...my tenant definitely needs to use the self-cleaning!

I have to note, although the heating element was covered by Maytag's 10yr limited parts warranty, I decided to purchase from PartSelect since Maytag could not provide a ship date and I couldn't keep my tenant waiting! Supposedly Maytag had the part in stock but their warehouse was behind because of the pandemic...what a lame excuse! Almost a month later, Maytag has yet to ship the part! Needless to say, am very disappointed in Maytag's after sales and warranty program! I get the impression, they just wanted to pressure me to buy the new part!

Lastly, was very pleased and impressed by PartSelect's customer service! Their website was very easy to use, less expensive than buying direct from Maytag and the part was shipped same day! Thank you PartSelect!

There is a good video on YouTube that shows exactly how to replace the bake element. Had mine fixed in 15 to 20 minutes. Saved me about $150 by not having to call repairman.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

very easy watched the howto you gave

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

Pop old one out and new one in

The instructions given on this website were more than adequate, even though the element had been updated and now has only 1 point to screw down

Unplugged stove.
Pulled stove out.
Unscrewed screws and removed cover.
Removed & replaced sensor.
Reinstalled cover & screws.
Plugged in stove and pushed back in.
Only problem was when I pulled stove out, lid opened and disconnected the gas line to a burner.

Very Simple, I recommend pulling the old gasket in sections, and popping the new gasket metal holders in the holes as you go. You can't mess it up. For the ends, I tucked them in using a pair of needle nose pliers, but any small slender tool, such as a thin screwdriver, will work.