WFE715H0EE0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great

Repair has not been made yet still waiting for the part. The part is on order and was told it would be shipped in 1/3 business days. Still waiting for the part to come from China. This is the problem with parts being made out side the U. S. A.

I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.

The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.

Again thanks for the help.

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

By hand screwdriver

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.

Shut beaker off
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks

Unplugged stove-Removed oven door two screws held the oven bottom pan removed same to observe the element removed thre fasteners removed inspection cover on back of the oven pulled off two electric wires replaced element reassembled easy job

Unplug range, remove cover from back of range disconnect red wires from element spade connectors. Remove oven racks, remove two screws from back of bottom tray, and remove tray. Remove screw from element bracket and remove element. Install new element and repeat steps in reverse order. Done.

Took out the bottom tray and the back cover panel, unplugged the old element and plugged the new one in and reassembled

I first shut off the breaker, then, after pulling the stove away from the wall, I unplugged it. I removed the two screws in the back of the stove which came off easily. I removed the two screws inside the oven and removed the bottom plate. I noticed the heating element I was changing had braces along the bottom. I had to remove the two screws and removed the burnt out element. The new element did not have the braces the original element had, but it fit in perfectly. Then I replaced all the screws, plugged it in and turned on the breaker and it worked. The only thing that we noticed is there’s a clicking sound every time the temperature increases. Not sure what that is.