WGE555S0BB03 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Took off top and pulled out old element and plugged in the new one

I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

Shut off breaker. Remove a total of 3 screws attach wires, replace screws, turn breaker on. Done!

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Turn off breaker in electric panel fore stove. Put screw driver into slots in front of glass top surface. Pry top up carefully until top pops up.Remove burner dial, remove two philips head screws holding switch. Lift top carefully and prop up.With new switch close remove wires from old switch one at a time and place on new switch. Place new switch back in place, securing with philips screws. Remove prop and carefully press top down until it snappes into place.Replace dial, turn breaker back on and try burner.

Shut off power at breaker box , pull stove away from wall , remove Phillips screws from back of range pull knob off of switch . Look to see how switch is oriented remove 2 screws that hold switch in . Remove one set of wires at a time and place on new switch in same location . Put back together in reverse order .

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.