SF325PEGN4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

I removed the handle from the door, replaced the old one with the new one............. 1, 2, 3, just that easy. The replacement part arrived very quickly and the price could not be beat. Would I use them again...........Yes!

I had to bring the new handle to the Hardware store and have them pick out screws that would work. The only problem is that I live 12 miles one way from the Hardware store. My advise is to order scews when ordering the handle.

Took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, fits perfect.

removed old and installed new

It only took my husbend 6min to put in the new oven igniter. But it did not work, so I call your center and the rep there talk my husbend and told him how to unluck the key bord, and that worked. Thank you for all the help.

Shut off gas and unplugged electrical cord. Removed grates; oven floor and flame spreader and then unbolted old igniter with nut driver. Removed shield in rear of over with Phillips screwdriver and unplugged igniter from power socket. Removed old igniter and replaced with new. Bolted new igniter into place with nut driver and plug into rear socket. Turned on gas and plugged in electric to test igniter; saw white glow and flame on in a minute. Replaced rear shield, flame spreader, oven floor and grates. DONE!

To begin with,the symptoms were strange.....the burner would not ignite even though the igniter was glowing....but if you bumped anything in the broiler or pulled the drawer out and closed it abruptly,it would lite. This went on for a few weeks , until slamming and banging worked no more.(that was getting old anyway)I went ahead and ordered the igniter.It came fast and was very easy to replace.I went in from the oven,took out the racks and the bottom plate(2 screws), exposing the flame diverter that is just above the burner.(2 screws)You can access the igniter now ,and remove it.(2 screws),and unplug it.Reverse order to install the new one.I didnt unplug the range or turn off the power,because I screwed the igniter on first and then it was a matter of just plugging it in. Everything went back together and turned on the oven. Worked fine. Very easy to do,and no more banging around the broiler.Should have done it sooner.

The replacement proceeds similarly as for electric range switch replacements described here, only this model is a gas range. The top panel does not lift up because of the feeds to the gas burners. It is possible, using a thin blade, to depress the spring fingers holding the switch in the oven panel, or else to remove it destructively. Be careful not to pull the old switch out too far, or else the wires will pull off the switch connectors and fall inside the oven-side panel cavity. This happened to me. The wires are very short. Another 1/2 inch of wire would have made all the difference. If this happens you have to fish out the loose wire. I gave up on this and took off the back panel (about 8 screws) and then loosened the bottom and sides of the side panel. This allowed me to retrieve the short wire and connect it to the back of the switch while pushing the switch into its mounting hole. Reattach the side panel, the back panel, and slide the stove back into place, and you should be good to go.

Used new differant screws to mount it and cut and spliced the wires to use the org. Plug.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.

We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and small get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...