SF305PEEQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Replaced bottom trim included in kit.
Installed side door trim.
While trying to slide glass front in place both plastic side trims broke.
Had to use already broken door trim and glued in. Just hope when use oven glue doesn’t melt and will have to replace entire oven.

I read some of question & answer to the problem I was having with the oven. When I saw do-it-yourself that all I need to know. Repair man quote me for 100.00 dollar he will do it plus part. So I save 100.00 dollar and done it myself. Thank to partselect for fast and quick delivery service. It was only 2 screws holding the element and the connector was a just plug it into the other plug very easy to do. I will always come back partselect for answer and help and buy the part from them. YOU ROCK PARTSELECT

Removed bottom pan from oven, removed gas flame deflector to expose ignitor and burner. Saw that ignitor was not working. Removed two mounting screws, pulled ignitor and wire until wire nuts were exposed and disconnected ignitor. Replaced with new ignitor, bracket and wire nuts. Remounted the new ignitor, and tested burner. Worked ok. Reinstalled deflector and pan, back in business.

Unplug the electrical cord. Remove all the grates and burner caps. Remove the two philips-head screws on each burner. Slide the plastic putty knife under the cooktop in the front to locate two clips. Push in to disengage clips and lift cooktop up in front. Disengage cooktop from the rear of the range. Remove the bad igniter from the burner head and replace with the new, Disconnect the wire from the spark module and install the new wire. Replace the cooktop by securing the rear first and then lowering into place until the clips engage. Replace the philips screws on the burners and the caps and grates. Plug the range back in and you are done.

I still don't have it back together! The first time we ordered the part the gentleman sent me the trim for the left side which seemed to be fine but while replacing it the old part (right side) broke. Ok. so I called to order same part but for the right side. Well, the lady told me I could only order the oven door trim kit, which seems to be too large. I don't think she understood me. Why the 1st time ordering I could get the left side only now when ordering the right side she says we don't sell it that way. Very confused and still can't use my oven since Dec,19th!!

I use the table knife to slide the side of the stove to open the top. then I traced one of the wire to where it was hooked up and remove it and replaced it. I did them one by one.

Loosened two screws and removed tray, very simple. Replaced new tray and adjusted screws to hold tray. Easiest part was finding new tray part number and ordering replacement using online parts diagram.

took 2 screws out of bottom plate in the oven and lifted it out. removed 2 screw on the flame deflector and took it out. Took 2 screws out of old ignitor and unplugged it. Installed new ignitor tested oven put it back together. took about 30 min. screw driver only

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Unplug the stove. Remove the burners. Release the top of the stove by using a screwdriver to push in the spring clips on each side of the stove top. Pull out stove to access the back of the stove. Remove the back plates. Identify the defective igniter wire and remove. Install the new igniter wire. Screw the back panels back on. Snap the stove top back in place. Reinstall the burners. Push the stove back into place and plug in the stove. Test the burners.
One precaution - make sure you do not move the gas tubing under the stove top out of position. If you do, make sure you put it back in line with the gas valves.

Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad igniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

We removed with a screwdriver the two main screws that held the bottom of the oven in place and removed the bottom oven piece; then we removed the two nuts with a socket wrench that held the element in place. We then discovered that the element wire did not completely egress to the point of being able to disconnect from within the oven, so we removed the storage drawer below the oven and that provided access to disconnect the element wire and reconnect the new element wire and then reverse the steps to install the new element, which worked fine upon first use and continues to work fine.

Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connected the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)