GR440LXMC0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Steve from GREENBRIER, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP3148952
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
could not control the temp of the element
take off back panel, simply unplug the old switch and plug in the new one. Simple
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- Customer:
- Fred from APACHE JCT, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven Elementwas burnt into
Watched the video and did as shown
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- Customer:
- Valerie from ROCHESTER, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP3195546
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broke drawer bracket
Was super easy even I could do it. Wish I would have done it 2 years ago when my husband broke it. Just used a Phillips screwdriver. Very easy!
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- Customer:
- Robert from WALDORF, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP8053807
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Clothes would not fully dry in automatic cycle
1st gen whirlpool Duet dryer sensor not working in automatic cycle.
After ordering the moisture sensor harness which is about 6-8 inches long, I removed the lower panel and it is right there. I disconnected the two wire connectors in the upper left and I need a small screwdriver to disconnect the two pin connector which was a bit of a pain but once replaced I no longer had to use the timed setting to dry clothes and this will save me electricity.
After ordering the moisture sensor harness which is about 6-8 inches long, I removed the lower panel and it is right there. I disconnected the two wire connectors in the upper left and I need a small screwdriver to disconnect the two pin connector which was a bit of a pain but once replaced I no longer had to use the timed setting to dry clothes and this will save me electricity.
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- Customer:
- Gary from MCKINLEYVILLE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP9761048
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Front left double burner would not regulate temperature
A $400+ estimate($200 for the part $200+ for labor) turned into a quick 15 min YouTube DIY with a $130 part (including tax& shipping). Unplugged range. Removed back screws. Pulled off front knob and removed screws. Reviewed orientation of the new switch then removed one wire at a time then attaching the wire to the proper spot on the switch. Reverse order for screws and knob above.
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- Customer:
- GARY from JACKSON, WY
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
baking element non operational
removed two screws to faceplate at rear of oven. Disconntected contact wires, installed bake element reconnected contact wires, attached faceplate turned on oven holy hell it works just saved some money on service call thanks!!!
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from COON RAPIDS, MN
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Worn/Bulb Socket
It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.
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- Customer:
- Johnie from PARKERSBURG, WV
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not heat up.
Unplugged the range. Opened the oven door and took out the shelves. Took the right screw out, but had trouble getting the left one out do to the age of the range. Unhooked the two wires and took the element out. Put the new one in and hooked up the two wires. Attached the two screws and checked to see that the element laid flat and then tighten screws. Closed the door and plugged the range back in and turned the oven on and it worked perfect.
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- Customer:
- David from ENID, OK
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven light kept burning out instantly
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
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- Customer:
- Nathan from WHITE RIV JCT, VT
- Parts Used:
- WP3148952
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Element temperature inconsistent
Turn off power to the stove (unplug or turn off breaker)
Remove back panel screws (Phillips) and back panel
Unplug switch
Remove knob and attaching screws (Phillips)
Remove and replace switch
Reinstall screws for switch and plugs in the back
Snap off the end of the stem if it's too long and reinstall knob
Reinstall back panel and turn power back on
*important: the large element has an updated switch and you may need to snap off the end of the stem with pliers! It's too long and there are no instructions for this included!*
Remove back panel screws (Phillips) and back panel
Unplug switch
Remove knob and attaching screws (Phillips)
Remove and replace switch
Reinstall screws for switch and plugs in the back
Snap off the end of the stem if it's too long and reinstall knob
Reinstall back panel and turn power back on
*important: the large element has an updated switch and you may need to snap off the end of the stem with pliers! It's too long and there are no instructions for this included!*
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- Customer:
- MICHAEL from FOUNTAIN INN, SC
- Parts Used:
- WP3148952
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Cooktop on and cooktop hot indicator lights stayed on.
Range surface element control switch was bad. Replaced the switch and every thing works fine. Removed two Philips head screws in front and two Philips head screws in back of the range. Pulled the front panel away from the back of the range with the power off of course. Unplugged the wires and removed the two screws that held the switch in. Replaced the switch and refastened the control panel. Tested the switch and every thing worked fine.
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- Customer:
- PHILIP from NORTH PORT, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10856603
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
element not working properly
Remove 2 screws inside oven holding element . Remove screws holding back panel. Plug wires (2) into new element.Install back panel . Done.
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- Customer:
- James from HILTON, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Coil shorted out.
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
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- Customer:
- Daniel from ONTARIO, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8523178
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rust on oven door lower trim.
Do not remove the oven door. (Not necessary.)
Remove the lower storage drawer.
While laying on the floor, remove 5 screws on bottom edge of door, two on each end, one in the middle. Middle screw is slightly different than other 4.
Caution: When removing the lower trim, the front glass may slip down. Be prepared to catch it. The side trim pieces may also slip out.
It helps to have a second pair of hands here. If needed: Slide the front glass back into place. Slide the side trim pieces back into place.
Position new lower trim piece, align holes. Start with the center screw, then the end screws. Leave all screws "loose" until all 5 are threaded, then tighten.
NOT recommended to caulk trim to prevent future rust. The caulk will act like glue on the front glass.
Remove the lower storage drawer.
While laying on the floor, remove 5 screws on bottom edge of door, two on each end, one in the middle. Middle screw is slightly different than other 4.
Caution: When removing the lower trim, the front glass may slip down. Be prepared to catch it. The side trim pieces may also slip out.
It helps to have a second pair of hands here. If needed: Slide the front glass back into place. Slide the side trim pieces back into place.
Position new lower trim piece, align holes. Start with the center screw, then the end screws. Leave all screws "loose" until all 5 are threaded, then tighten.
NOT recommended to caulk trim to prevent future rust. The caulk will act like glue on the front glass.
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- Customer:
- Allen from ASHLAND, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477, WP8053334
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Element had burned out, and the drawer glides were broken .
Replaced both .
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