RF4700XWW3 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Someone did the repair for me.

Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

I removed the block, cut and spliced the wires to the new block and installed the burner. I used the new style block kit and saved about $30. It worked great!

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

Shut off power to the stove.
I removed the screw that held the block in place. Then I lifted the top of the rage to get to the wires. I cut the wires from the old block and stripped back the insulation. Next I put the heat shrinking sleeve on. I attached the new block with the wire nuts, pulled the sleeve down and used a hair dryer to shrink them. Then you just hook it back on screw it in and your done.

remove burned out eye, replaced with new eye.new eye does not fit exactally correct onto splash pan as point on end of steel " rod " not pointed enough to slip into mate on splash pan

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts together with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

Removed the original burner element sockets and replaced with parts provided in kit. Instructions were simple and easy to follow, problem completely solved in 20 mins!

First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They work very well now.