RF264LXSB1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Johnie from PARKERSBURG, WV
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not heat up.
Unplugged the range. Opened the oven door and took out the shelves. Took the right screw out, but had trouble getting the left one out do to the age of the range. Unhooked the two wires and took the element out. Put the new one in and hooked up the two wires. Attached the two screws and checked to see that the element laid flat and then tighten screws. Closed the door and plugged the range back in and turned the oven on and it worked perfect.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Fred from APACHE JCT, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven Elementwas burnt into
Watched the video and did as shown
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Daniel from ONTARIO, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8523178
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rust on oven door lower trim.
Do not remove the oven door. (Not necessary.)
Remove the lower storage drawer.
While laying on the floor, remove 5 screws on bottom edge of door, two on each end, one in the middle. Middle screw is slightly different than other 4.
Caution: When removing the lower trim, the front glass may slip down. Be prepared to catch it. The side trim pieces may also slip out.
It helps to have a second pair of hands here. If needed: Slide the front glass back into place. Slide the side trim pieces back into place.
Position new lower trim piece, align holes. Start with the center screw, then the end screws. Leave all screws "loose" until all 5 are threaded, then tighten.
NOT recommended to caulk trim to prevent future rust. The caulk will act like glue on the front glass.
Remove the lower storage drawer.
While laying on the floor, remove 5 screws on bottom edge of door, two on each end, one in the middle. Middle screw is slightly different than other 4.
Caution: When removing the lower trim, the front glass may slip down. Be prepared to catch it. The side trim pieces may also slip out.
It helps to have a second pair of hands here. If needed: Slide the front glass back into place. Slide the side trim pieces back into place.
Position new lower trim piece, align holes. Start with the center screw, then the end screws. Leave all screws "loose" until all 5 are threaded, then tighten.
NOT recommended to caulk trim to prevent future rust. The caulk will act like glue on the front glass.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Wallace from Hanson, KY
- Parts Used:
- W10840298
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Shorted oven contoller and display module
Tool out 4 screws, unpluged the connectors, unscrewed two screws holding the module. Replugged the connectors, replaced screws. Done (don't forget to turn the power off)
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Alex from Athens, IL
- Parts Used:
- W10840298
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Stove top worked. When the oven turned on the timer would come on for the pre-heat but the oven never warmed up.
After I confirmed that the hearing elements weren't bad I started following wires and ended up at the control panel. After confirming with a multi meter that the elements weren't getting power I decided that the control panel was the problem. There are two screws that hold the panel in place. The connectors should plug right back into the new panel but mine didn't. After a slight modification i got it to work. The clips were different on the new panel so I just pulled the wires out I the connectors and plugged them into the appropriate slots on the panel. Oh, and the part arrived the next day and it was 3 days before Christmas. This is the second purchase I have made from them and I will continue to give them my business. A+!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- RICHARD from DELTONA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
8" FRONT BURNER STAYED ON HIGH HEAT/WOULD NOT REDUCE TEMPERTURE
REMOVE BACK OF RANGE, REMOVE BURNER KNOB. REMOVE SWITCH CONTROL REMOVE WIRES. REPLACE WIRES ON NEW SWITCH. INSERTED ALL WIRES REPLACE NEW SWITCH RE REPLACE ALL SCREWS. CHECK SWITCH. TURN BRAKER BACK ON. CHECK SWITCH FUNCTION. ALL IS FINE. PUT BACK ON RANGE SCREW IT IN PLACE. MOVE RANGE BACK IN IT POSITION.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- GARY from JACKSON, WY
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
baking element non operational
removed two screws to faceplate at rear of oven. Disconntected contact wires, installed bake element reconnected contact wires, attached faceplate turned on oven holy hell it works just saved some money on service call thanks!!!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Julie from Salt Lake City, UT
- Parts Used:
- WPW10259865
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The heating element on the left front burner was out
Pulled the old one out and plugged the new one in. It was that simple!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- MICHAEL from FOUNTAIN INN, SC
- Parts Used:
- WP3148952
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Cooktop on and cooktop hot indicator lights stayed on.
Range surface element control switch was bad. Replaced the switch and every thing works fine. Removed two Philips head screws in front and two Philips head screws in back of the range. Pulled the front panel away from the back of the range with the power off of course. Unplugged the wires and removed the two screws that held the switch in. Replaced the switch and refastened the control panel. Tested the switch and every thing worked fine.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- JOSEPH from COON RAPIDS, MN
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Worn/Bulb Socket
It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- carlos from TRACY, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP3148952
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Over heating element.
Just turn off power , remover screws. Remove and plug in new part.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Michael from THE VILLAGES, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner wouldn't regulate temperature
Turned off power to range. Took back panel off to reveal all controls. Pulled off knob of bad control. Removed 2 screws from the front of the control. Pulled off wiring from back of old control. Took new control reversed procedure. Reinstalled back panel turned power on and tested new control. Total time about 20 minutes
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- William H. from morehead city, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
electrical short from oven light.
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Carol from BELLINGHAM, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replacing oven light and socket
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Jill from LYNNWOOD, WA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10308477
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element died
Followed instructions on urine that you provided. Instructions were great.
Only problem had was the screw was hard to get loose on one due to oven usage from previous people but I got it after a bit and then fairly simple from there. Unplugged and plugged new element in. Works although seems to run a bit hotter than before.
Only problem had was the screw was hard to get loose on one due to oven usage from previous people but I got it after a bit and then fairly simple from there. Unplugged and plugged new element in. Works although seems to run a bit hotter than before.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!