CES365HQ1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

Went very easy--clean up was the worst part-the service was excellent with fast delivery.

1. Disconnected power from my oven.
2. Removed several screws that held the control block
3. Removed two screws that held the switch itself disconnected wires and removed switch
4. Reconnected all wires to new switch (no soldiering gun required)
5. Put control block back

Overall - very easy

1st; I opened the door, 2nd; removed the keepers that prevent the door from coming unhinged. 3rd; placed 2 short screws in the holes in the hinges. 4th; raised the door until it stopped. 5th; lifted the door upward and slid the hinges out of the slots in the range. 6th; laid the door face up on a microwave stand. With a handle on the outside, and hinges sticking out of the inside, it was inpossible to lay the door flat on a larger surface, and get around it. 7th; removed 2 screws from the inside top, and the 8 screws from the very bottom. 8th; removed the bottom rail, and the handle assembly. From there everything was stacked pieces. Picked the glass front up, and carefully set it safely aside. Picked each piece up and cleaned it, and started the re-assembly. The hardest part of the process was getting the fiberglass rope around the inside glass, to stay in place during the initial re-assembly. From there, the assembly was just the reverse order. the process was about 1 hour and 20 minutes, due to lack instructions and practice, plus cleaning, finding screws, and tools, Instructions may have been on line, but I didn't find them. The new hinges came with pins in place, and should have come with an extra set to lock the old hinges.

Moved the stove out from the wall. Took out the screws from the back and then from the top. I pulled the piece through the back to unplug the clips from the elements. But the wires went back through the openings. So I had to take the back off of the stove to get to the wires to put back through the holes in the stove. Once the clips were back together, I put the back back on the stove. Rebolted the part to the stove and moved it back.

Very easy . Just removed four screws and removed the back cover. Then just unplugged two clips from the element . The repeated all of my steps in reverse . Be sure to unplug the oven before you start on the project .

This purchase was for replacement parts, not for repair. Installation was a simple matter of taking out the old and installing the new, which is extremely easy to do. One item was damaged; Parts Select was absolutely fantastic to deal with regarding replacement! One word of caution regarding the product - I mistakenly ordered Whirlpool drip pans which have an opening in the bottom, the Maytag pans don't. Initially I thought that it was a mistake by Parts Select; which wasn't the case. The pans fit perfectly so I kept them. If I reorder, I will be certain that I order the correct pans.

Removed the screws that hold the handle to the oven door. In less than 5 min had the glass in place and you couldn't even tell that I had broken the glass door.
super easy to change very helpful company to get stuff from.

After trying for many years to buy the "cheap" drip pans in the store, "They never fit right", I decided to order the correct drip bowls. Now my stove top looks brand new, and my coil elements fit the proper way.

Since it fell out, we didn't know how to put it back in--after several hours of frustration, thinking the glass was too big--we went to appliance store and looked at a stove and found out the glass went on the outside with only a groove and handle holding it in place. After that, it took about 30 minutes to complete.

Removed the trim by unscrewing 5 screws being careful not to drop glass panel. Had to scrape and paint over rust stains on the glass panel. After paint dried reinstalled with new trim (remodeled part only required 3 screws). Just a little tricky getting screws started while holding up the glass panel.

I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to come out and replace the wire.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.