FEP330VL1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.

pulled out old burner and pushed in new burner.
No tools needed.

The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.

Replace the connector and bracket, spliced the wires, put heat to the schrink wrap and I was done.

After finding the correct Y-frame, inches and watts in a surface burner, it was easy to just slide in the slots. Tested, and it was perfect. Now it makes all of the other burners look bad. Thanks. Your site was the only one, that I was sure I had the correct part.

I raised the stove top, read the instructions to my son while he did the work, then I lowered the stove top, installed the burner, and it worked like magic.

First I removed the one screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Removed burner and tray. Removed burner connector from stove top using screw driver.
Removed existing heat shrink and wirenuts.
Installed new connector - wire nuts and heat shrink. Used lighter to shrink.
Took 20 minutes.

First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws for the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.

a really simple fix! the parts came really quickly and all i had to do was pull the heating elements out along with the old drip pans and line up the new pans and push back in. the drip pans weren't 100% perfect as they were a universal fit, and were missing the clips that help the heating elements i nplace, but they look fine and do the job all the same.

extremely easy to replace the burner. I just pulled out the old burner and replaced with new one. The whole process took less than ten minutes.

Repair? What repair? I just removed the old drip bowl and replaced it with the new one. Piece of cake.

Removed the old broken burner and slid the burner prongs into place. Very EASY to replace!