RF310PXXN1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Piece a cake!
Turned off electrical breaker.
Removed original screws from old defective element and slipped in new replacement element.
Perfect fit!

Turn off the oven circuit breaker. Remove 2 screws that hold the element in place. Carefully pull element out, about 3 inches and remove 2 attached wires by holding the element and pulling the wire clips off of the old element. Slide wire clips onto the new element and put the screws back in.

Pulled out element, plugged in new element. About 5 seconds.

Remove racks, extract two phillips head screws, pull out element, unattached wires, install new element, reverse procedure to complete installation. (Note: With the racks and element out, great time to clean oven.)

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

Disconnect power to the oven at circuit breaker. Most important confired power removed by turning on buner,also with electrial meter. Remove hex screw. Pulled purner forward approx 3 inches remove the two wires to burner element . Installed new burner reverse rotation . Returned power to oven,all was well no problems. Not to sure of burner wattage on old and new unit,as two burners are avaiable for this unit. All ok . Thanks to parts select for speedy part needed

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

remove all element that is held with two screws and install the new one. easy fix! and a lot cheaper than a new stove!

First, turn the breaker off to the oven, you don't want to electrocute yourself. There are two screws that hold the element to the back wall of the oven, undo those and pull the element towards you. There are two terminals at each end of the element, take these off, then reattach to the new element and screw back in to the back wall of the oven. This process takes maybe all of five minutes

Took a phillips head screwdriver and took out the two screws. Lifted off small plate securing screws, pulled lightly and wiggled the element out and popped the new one in. Total time 7 minutes - yes we timed it!!! Fast delivery too!!!

lifted up burner and pulled it free from its connection, then removed drip pan. used my cordless drill to drill out broken stabilizer clip. cleaned up chips from the drill process before installing new clip. installed clip with enclosed screw and nut. I then installed the new burner by lining it up with the connection under the cook top pushed it place and lowered it into the stabilizer clip. Then I turned the burner on to try it out, but I waited for about one hour before turning on the burner because it was cold from being outside.