GGE388LXS04 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Slide range out to access rear. Turn off circuit breaker and/or unplug stove. I did both. Removed four screws on top section on rear of range and CAREFULLY slid out the back plate. Disconnected all wires and plugs from old switch noting locations. Placed wires and plugs on new switch. Removed knob and then two screws from front of old switch. Carefully placed new switch in proper location and screwed in the two front screws. CAREFULLY place the back plate in proper location and reattach with four screws. Clean floor and cabinet sides while range is out. Plug in range and/or turn on circuit breaker. Test switch operation and verify Cooking Surface On light only lights when switches are on. Slide range back into place.

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

I followed the instructions as provided. When I finished I noticed the switch was 1/4 turn out from the off position mark on the stove. So I pulled the stove back out and took the back panel off again pulled the knobs back off took out the screws that held the switches in place and rotated the switch 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then I replaced all the screws and knobs . Then I replaced the panel and shoved the stove back in place. One of the burners was an eight inch and the switch doesn't work as well as it could. However there was not a direct replacement for the eight inch burner.

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

removed 4 screws lifted off the face with switches replaced the bad switch and put the face plate back on. if you have any concerns just watch the video , part select has posted its great

removed several screws, removed old controller, installed new controller buttoned back up works perfect

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

replaced control

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Had an electrician to do the job for me.

Turn off 220 voltage, unplug and remove clips. replace it with new part. Check part before replacing the top of range, if it works, the electricity can be turned back on. Repair done.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.