GY397LXUS03 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

Once I saw the spring clips on the new door seal, it was easy to understadn how to remove the old seal and install the new one. Looks nice !

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Simple process. Pull the unit out approximately 6 inches. Remove 2 phillips head screws on the left side panel which is about 3 inches wide and runs from the top to the bottom of the unit. No need to remove the panel on the right. Two hex head screws hold each hinge in and are visible once the oven door is removed by opening the door about 20 degrees and lifting it off the hinges. Once the door is off, simply remove the two hex head/self tapping screws holding each hinge in place and remove the hinges from the rear of the front of the oven. Reverse the process to install the new hinges. Do not over tighten but remember they are self tapping and need just a bit of tightening until the hings feels solid. Replace the door by sliding it over the hinges and you're done.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.

Removed two screws, unplugged the old unit, plugged in the new, screwed the new in. Job done. Would have been less than five minutes if I hadn't kept dropping the screws.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

Husband got on partselect.com and read reviews, we ordered a long oven sensor kit. When it came in the mail, I took it out and look at it, decided I could probably switch the part.... and so I did. Easy Breezy ... and it worked well

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.