WFG114SWT1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

it was abit difficult to remove the rusted hinge because of rust, but after getting it out and securing the new one, I realize I had an even bigger problem. The new hinge was closed and the spring was very tight.After a closer look at the other side of the oven door where the hinge was intact, I saw a hole in the hinge when it was opened. So I opened the new hinge by pulling it open and exposing the hole, put a pin in the hole.I then put the hinge in position and put in the screws.But now the door wouldn't go into position. I then had to put pins on both hinges and slide them in at the same time,locking them into place.This was the first time i ever took out an oven door or attempted any stove repair.

Looked up on-line the error problem and what part I needed to fix it. Part arrived very quickly and everything was going fine until I realized the stove had two sensors. Replaced the top sensor now I am getting an error on the bottom sensor. Maybe I replaced the wrong one. I will replace the bottom sensor with the one I took out and see if that does the trick. Very very satisfied with PartsSelect. Good Price, Quick Shipping, Would do business with them again. They are now in my favorites so I can find them again if I need parts.

It only took my husbend 6min to put in the new oven igniter. But it did not work, so I call your center and the rep there talk my husbend and told him how to unluck the key bord, and that worked. Thank you for all the help.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Our oven wouldn't light as the ignitor wasn't getting hot enough. I ordered the part from your company and got it in just a few days. A quarter inch wrench and one plug, done!

Moved oven away from wall, Turned off gas and unplugged electrical from wall. The igniter has a coupler plug that you have to unplug from behind the unit. Take out the bottom drawer. Remove the 2 nuts holding the igniter in place. Remove old igniter. Replace with the new igniter, screw in nuts and thread connector wire to back of unit. Reconnect the igniter behind the unit. Turn on gas and plug in electricity. I checked to make sure it worked before pushing it back into place. I also took time to clean up while the oven was pulled out so it took about an hour - 15 minutes to replace the part - 45 to clean up. Works and looks just like a new oven range!

We just put the new burner cap on the stove, and my husband just slipped the new handle on the stove.

most difficult part was having to pull the stove out to access the Igniter wire connector. unplugged connector, removed 2 Igniter mounting screws, installed new Igniter and connected plug. very easy project. less than 30 minutes total thanks to website for perfect diagnosis of problem

Removed bottom plate by pulling up from the back (had some resitance), Two machine screws holding cover over igniter, used 3/8" socket to remove. Pulled oven from wall to disconnect igniter @ coupler, unscrew one more machine screw, fed replacement igniter into slot and coupled, attached single screw to pipe, put cover w/ 2 machine screws on top, install bottom plate. Had to use butter knife to get bottom plate to fit into the front cabinet area of stove. Done & working fine.

Really quite simple. Remove the racks - remove the two screws in the back of the bottom plate - slide out. remove the bottom drawer. remove the two screws holding the igniter - unplug the old igniter and remove. screw in new igniter, plug up new igniter, replace bottom drawer, replace bottom pate, replace racks. I did turn off the gas and electricity to the unit before repairing - and it was easier for me to get behind the unit to unplug/plug the igniter. works great! thanks!

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

The igniter would glow but no gas was released to the burner. I was told that the igniter is bad because it is not getting hot enough to open the safety valve to release the gas to the burner. I turn the gas off and unplugged the oven. Opened the oven removed the racks then removed the two screws that hold the bottom plate of the oven. Now I can see the burner and the igniter. The igniter is held on to the burner with two screws. Unscrew then and unplugged the wires. Then replaced with new igniter. Replaced everything that I removed. Plugged oven back in and turned on gas. Then started oven, it takes 45 sec. for the igniter to get hot enough to release the gas and everything was working.

ordered the part and in less then 24 hours from ordering the part it was shipped and delivered and my husband and I put the part in took us no time at all very easy to do... 2 years ago i had this same problem and called a guy in the area cost me $200. I had dinner in the oven by 5 that night!!!!

To begin with,the symptoms were strange.....the burner would not ignite even though the igniter was glowing....but if you bumped anything in the broiler or pulled the drawer out and closed it abruptly,it would lite. This went on for a few weeks , until slamming and banging worked no more.(that was getting old anyway)I went ahead and ordered the igniter.It came fast and was very easy to replace.I went in from the oven,took out the racks and the bottom plate(2 screws), exposing the flame diverter that is just above the burner.(2 screws)You can access the igniter now ,and remove it.(2 screws),and unplug it.Reverse order to install the new one.I didnt unplug the range or turn off the power,because I screwed the igniter on first and then it was a matter of just plugging it in. Everything went back together and turned on the oven. Worked fine. Very easy to do,and no more banging around the broiler.Should have done it sooner.

Used new differant screws to mount it and cut and spliced the wires to use the org. Plug.