YIES366RS4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

removed the screws that were on back side of oven securing panel that covered element terminals disconnected wiring to upper element then went in side oven area removing 4 upper mount screws that were holding upper element in place then removed old element and reinstalled new in same order was removed..

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

Took off the old handle ,cleaned the surface then peeled off the double sided tape and replaced the new handle.

So easy. Unplug the range. (really important. You're working with wiring after all) Unscrew the metal plate holding the bake element in place, gently pull out the wires and detach the element from them. (the element just pulls off, but it was attached pretty tightly so I did have to use needlenose pliers to get a better grip on it.) Then simply plug in the new bake element, push the wires back in, reattach the metal plate and bake a cake! Don't even think about calling a repairman for this one! It took under 10 minutes once I got around to ordering the element. (none of the local stores carried them)

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

Went on line to see if the repair could be done by us. Watched repair video and from there on the repair went as smooth as it possibly could.

Followed the video step by step. No problem

Unpluged from electric. I took two bolts out of back of oven attached to boiler. Pulled out and exposed cords the attach to boiler. Slide them off and removed old boiler. Attached cords to new boiler and slide part back in to attach the two bolts back. Plugged oven back in and worked great

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Unplug power. Remove panel on the back. Unplug heater.From front remove 3 screws and remove heater. Installed new heater. On the back restored connections - squized the lugs to have better connection. Put panel back. Plug the power and see if the coil get red. It looked good. Used oven few times it works fine. Difficoult part is to clean oven all around from accumulated grease. First repair for this stove, most of the time spend on figuring out what to open, no instructions.

Keep in mind that I am a 65 year old woman who has replaced bake elements on a much older range that was hard wired. I viewed the video so I knew what to expect. The job would have taken no more than 15 minutes if the retaining screws had not been stuck. After several doses of WD40, I finally managed to get them loose but only then after I had tried every screw driver in the house. I clamped the leads with vise grips to keep them from slipping back in the stove. Unplugging the old broken element and plugging in the new one took maybe a couple of minutes. The retaining screws went back in without a problem.

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Only difficult because one heating element connector broken off. Before receiving correct part, tried to install generic element, which had leads about 2 inches too long, so trying to force into place bent electrical connectors that go from oven to heating element. Tried to bend one back and it broke off, so did not bend 2nd one back. Received correct heating element, and slid unbroken connector on one element side, and soldered 2nd element on. Screwed heating element in and it works fine.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.