YGFE461LVB1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

pulled range from between counter cabinets.
Opened breaker. Disconnected plug.
Removed back panel. 12 sheet metal screws.
Pulled off plastic knob.
Removed 2 machine screws coding control switch.
Used flat screwdriver to pry off 2 connectors.
Checked part number matched new part.
Pushed connectors onto control switch. Only fit one way.
Reinstalled switch with 2 machine screws.
Reinstalled back panel Most time consuming to get 12 sheet metal holes to line up panel-to-range.
Reconnected 220VAC plug. Reset breaker.
Tested control switch could turn on a fraction of the burner.
Pushed range back between cabinets.
Somehow height had changed so perpendicular drawer interfered with range handle. Maybe foot rotated when pulled out?
Removed lower large pan drawer. Lowered right front range foot to raise range handle. 2nd longest time consumed.
Re-installed lower large pan drawer

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Remove 2 screws inside oven holding element . Remove screws holding back panel. Plug wires (2) into new element.Install back panel . Done.

Luckily, I bought 2 glides right away, as the 2nd one broke while I repaired the 1st one. It was a straight forward screw in the parts using a Phillips screwdriver.

I order the part here, the first part never arrived, it was an empty package, the second part was breaking, the glass support was missing. Broken from the vent trim, then I was tired of it so I just put back the original broken part with some super glue on it, lol

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.

I used a phillips screwdriver and replaced the part with one screw.Very easy and replaced my lower drawer under my oven,it tool about three to five minutes at the most and my drawer works fine now.Thanks for the instruction video on line, it really helped.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.