WDE150LVT01 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

unplugged power took the back panel off unplugged the 5 wires removed knob by grabbing and pulling off took two screws out of front panel removed the switched put new switch in place and reversed the procedure went very smooth know problem at all any one with any kind of ability should change this switch in know time at all

SHUT OFF POWER AT BREAKER BOX! Remove oven door, use nut driver to remove two screws holding old element to back of oven. Pull forward to get wires into oven, remove wire clips from old part and re-attach to new element using pliers. Re-attach to back of oven, replace door. Turn on power and heat oven to burn off coating on new element. Not at all difficult, except for wire clips are at angle to wire, making re-attachment a bit difficult to do. DO NOT LOSE WIRES INTO BACK AS THEY WOULD BE VERY DIFFICULT TO RESCUE IN A JENN-AIR SLIDE IN UNIT LIKE OURS.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I followed the instructions as provided. When I finished I noticed the switch was 1/4 turn out from the off position mark on the stove. So I pulled the stove back out and took the back panel off again pulled the knobs back off took out the screws that held the switches in place and rotated the switch 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then I replaced all the screws and knobs . Then I replaced the panel and shoved the stove back in place. One of the burners was an eight inch and the switch doesn't work as well as it could. However there was not a direct replacement for the eight inch burner.

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

replaced element with new one , worked perfectly-

I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

removed several screws, removed old controller, installed new controller buttoned back up works perfect

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Replaced drip pan. Notch did not want to match the burner notch. Was a close fit bit with a little pressure made it work.

Changing out the switch was easy. Paid attention to wire connections to avoid mixup. Removal and installation of the switch was easy. It's the back panels that gave me the most challenge. Used screwdrivers and needle nose pliers to do repair. Having a second set of hands for the two part back panel reinstall was most helpful, but can be accomplished by 1 person.
Burner works great. This is a easy DIY fix.