WFE381LVS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

First, I turned the circuit breaker off to the range. Then, I pulled the range out so that I could get to the screws which held the glass top in place. They were located on the sides of the range. I had to remove the trim pieces on the sides to get to the forward screws. Once that was done, I lifted the glass top, unplugged the wire harness, flpped it over on a protected surface. I noted the numbers on the old coil where the clips held it in place and put the clips on the new coil in the same place. The old wires just clipped on to the new coil exactly as they clipped on to the old coil. I put it all back together and it works great! I am a 70 year old woman who did this all by myself. You young guys should have no problem.

Install bottom door trim first...Remove upper door handle and set new glass door front piece in place and re install upper door handle and tighten all screws...Looks great

Repair video was very helpful. I have removed the screws on both sides of the appliance under the surface plate, in the front. The Owen door has to be open for that. Then I have pulled the surface plate for a little space to disconnect the two connectors. Turned the surface plate over on the kitchen table, removed the 6 screws. Turned the burners assembly over and removed the small burner by disengaging the two clips. I have removed the 2 clops from the burned burner and assembled it to the new burner. I have placed the burner and engaged the 2 clips with a crownose players. I have removed one electrical connecter at a time and connected to the new burner. I have turned over the assembly over the glass plate and assembled the back cover with 6 screws. Put the surface plate on the range and connected the 2 connectors, pushed back, lined it up with the 2 screw holes in front of the range on bot sides and put the 2 screws in and Finished.

1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from the range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.

take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

i did fine

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.

Using 4 strips of duct tape was useful,in holding the glass to the door.

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)

It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.