GY399LXUB04 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W

The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge

2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.

3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.

4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both

5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations

6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element

7. Put everything back together in reverse order.

Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.

Pulled oven out unplugged the unit unplugged broiler unscrewed broiler from inside repeated the process backwards turned oven back on

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

I don't want to give Instructions!
Only that we took pictures to use as needed to be sure we knew how to put it all back together!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges)
• Removed two screws
• Removed broken hinge
• Placed new hinge in place
• Replaced screws
• Replaced oven door.

Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.