GW395LEGT3 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

This worked very well, thanks to the advice posted from other users. The only part that was a bit unclear was removing the door. There are small, slotted metal pieces screwed into the sides of the oven to hold the door hinges in the slots. After removing those, I had to hold the door and push it up and down, and a little bit side to side, to get the hinges to start sliding out, but they did. There are no other screws or brackets holding them in place. The hinges are on springs, so they do snap up when they come out of the slots in the sides of the oven. But they only snap to a 90 degree angle, so they won't cut your fingers off. You'd have to hold your fingers right on them to even get pinched. After that, I just kept taking screws out of the door until I got through to the back panel, replaced it, and put it all back together.

Watched video and followed the very accurate and helpful instructions. A #2 Phillips screwdriver was the only tool required. This is an easy job for the average person.

The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.

Based on symptom, knew either switches or spark module. Checked continuity to each switch. Knew if only one faulty, entire harness must be replaced. Checked out good. Spark module isolated so replaced it.

I unscrewed the igniter from the top of the oven, and removed the back panel of the stove. I had a friend in the back while I jiggled the two wires to see which ones they where. Then I had to use two pliers to pull the connectors apart. I tied a string to the two wires and pulled them out through the oven and left the string and tied the new wires to the string and pulled the new wires through the back of the stove, and replaced the back and screws.

removed door from range and slowly took apart until reached inner glass. there are three pcs of glass, front and two inner. was able to clean the inside which was dirty after 15 years of use. took alittle over an hour from start to finish including thorough cleaning.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

There are already good instructions here on doing the repair, so I will just add what I found important. 1) using penetrating oil and an impact wrench on the screws that hold the inner glass to the inside of the oven door - they were rusted tight. 2) the outside glass front sits on the front of the door, on top of the edges of the side pieces, even though it looked to me like the side pieces were meant to go over the edges of the glass - they aren't. The bare side edges of the glass aren't covered with any trim at all. The video on removing the oven door that matched the kind of hinges I had showed taking them off the door as part of disassembly of the door. I didn't find that necessary at all, and you probably won't either. Less parts to have to get back in place. The hard part to me was finding the correct disassembly video to match the oddball hinges, which isn't to say it's a bad design - actually it seems better that the other more common designs. Take out the two screws above where the hinges enter the range, and lift the door up, away from the range, and off. Easy peasy.

I have KitchenAid convection oven that is about ten years old . The hinge on the left hand side broke so I had to replace it. It took me about 2 hours to get the job done because I cleaned the door as I went . The change out while fairly strait forward did take some time . A lot longer the some of the people said .

Replaced damaged drawer roller: easy peasy!

I slid the range out about 8 inches from the wall, and having unplugged the range and looked at the diagram from the Parts Select site, I used a mirror and screwdriver to remove the screws holding the small rear cover. From there I removed the one screw holding the spark module and that way I was able to hold the old and new one side by side to move the wires. Reversed the process, easy peasy.

We were extremely happy that there was a replacement for our cooktop. When appliances are 25 yrs old it becomes difficult to find replacements and sometimes there just aren't any. Thank you Parts Select.

Video's did not show my door construction so I had some difficulty and surprises. One must disassemble and keep all parts in order of disaasembly with all screws for each part.separated. Be methodical and patient and it will all work out.

My son had first removed the 2 screws to disconnect the damaged element. He then removed the element
by pulling it out and disconnected the wires.

I was si grateful when he was able to connect the new igniter so we could have cookies for Christmas...thank you for your very prompt delivery of the element and the ease to reconnect it.