GY398LXPQ02 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Followed the easy instruction sheet provided.

First turn off breakers for cooktop. Reached undereneath the cooktop and pushed it out and set on the counter. (1) unscrewed the frame holding the glass and removed it. (2) pulled glass off. (3) Unhooked the burned out element after identifying wire connections so I could connect the new element correctly. (4) Put the glass back on the frame. (5) Placed the frame over the glass and screwed it back to to frame. (6) Moved cooktop back into place. (7) Turned breakers back on and turned element on and it was operational. It was a very easy job.

First, I turned the circuit breaker off to the range. Then, I pulled the range out so that I could get to the screws which held the glass top in place. They were located on the sides of the range. I had to remove the trim pieces on the sides to get to the forward screws. Once that was done, I lifted the glass top, unplugged the wire harness, flpped it over on a protected surface. I noted the numbers on the old coil where the clips held it in place and put the clips on the new coil in the same place. The old wires just clipped on to the new coil exactly as they clipped on to the old coil. I put it all back together and it works great! I am a 70 year old woman who did this all by myself. You young guys should have no problem.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

We called a dear handyman church member with years of repair service to his home, personal vehicles and general maintenance of our little church and parsonage. Known for his trade as an engineer with over 50 years in the industry wearing white shirts and working in an office; however, he is not afraid to get his hand dirty. We all worked together (my husband, daughter and me) to troubleshoot and resolve the problem and the terminal block purchased from "parts select" was just the answer to all our problems and worries. The range is fully operational and works like new. Thanks.

first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)

1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from the range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.

Opened the range surface, changed the large surface element. One of the wire was different to unplug. Need someone else to hold the panel. It was not a tough job.

It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

unscrew 3 screws under the control panel and pull that away from the glass top making sure the wires don't come apart from the connectors. care fully slide the glass forward and replace the burner which was the easy part. DO NOT try to test without making sure that none of the burner are touching the metal surface!!!!!!!! it will trip your breaker. But now we have a range with 4 burner after a year THANKS

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one