SF315PEGQ6 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

Part came super fast, remove and replace two screws - nothing to it

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

The repair was easy. I had to remove the trim on the other side and the bottom. You slide the new trim on and screw in the bottom two screws.

It is very simple to do. We called a repair man we normally use, but he does not do gas appliances. So started to research. I removed the bottom drawer, looked at the connection on the wires hanging down. Opened the oven removed the racks. On the bottom plate, loosened two screws and slid the bottom toward the front and removed it. Then removed two philips screws and removed the heat deflection plate, it slides forward and pulled up from the back. Then there it was- the igniter. I looked at it then looked at the connection behind the drawer. Went to PartSelect.com, found the part using the model number and used the parts diagram found the igniter and the picture matched what I had. I ordered the part, placed all parts back in place until part arrived. After part arrived, shut off breaker to oven removed all parts again disconnected the wire connection behind the drawer. Then on the side of the igniter, I used a nut driver, removed two bolts and took out the igniter. Matched it to the new one, including the power connection. Placed new one in and reversed the order. Turned on breaker, Pre Heated oven, been in service since. Ordered part before 3 on Wed, received early on Friday. Stopped home during lunch Friday and put it in place. 15 minutes and DONE Oven worked and fresh baked cookies when I got home! Thanks PartSelect.com!

I removed the bottom srtip. Installed the new bottom strip, snapped in the side pieces. [The old ones screwed in.] Replaced the original handle. Ready to reinstall door.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Replacing it was just as simple,only in reverse.
The only tip I have that I should mention,is to UNPLUG the appliance first,as 110volts tingle your fingers!

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Found that the two screws securing the bottom had rusted away allowing me to just lift the old bottom out. The new one fit in place exactly and really did not need the screws. Done in 2 minutes.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I removed the handle by unscrewing two philips screws located on the each side on the top inside of the door. I then placed the glass bottom end in first, lined it up on both ends, put the handle back in place and put the screws back.

I removed the two screws that held the igntr in place. Then I pulled the igntr out and unplugged the wires. Replaced the igntr with the two screws and plugged the wires back together. I then turned the oven on to 400 degrees and it heated like a new one.

remove the hinge stays they just clip in
remove the door. took out screw at bottom of door.
replaced trim.
replacing the door was a problem i didn't have pins to put in the spring loaded hinges so i used nails to hold hinge in position.
so make sure to open oven door first insert pins or nails in hinges then remove door. It would have took 10 min. to do.

since it was the control knob, all I had to do was to push it right onto the stem, and it was finished. Using the web site to find the correct item was very easy.

Un-screwed 4 screws. Got part numbers off of the pieces. Put numbers in blank on web site and ordered the pieces. Parts cam in 4 days later and installed the pieces with my trusty screwdriver.