GR556LRKS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I can't believe how easy this was to fix. 1. Unplug the stove. 2. remove the screws that hold the stove top in place. 3. pull the top up, unplug the electrical wires and unscrew the ground wire 4. remove the stove top and flip it over. 4. unscrew braces holding the burners in place. 5. with pliers, remove the wire connections between stove top and old burners 6. replace with new burners. 7. reattach everything. And you're done! Go brag to the neighbors about what you just did.

A breeze. Lifted top, propped it, removed defective element, disconnected wire modules,connected modules to new element, fastened new element, closed top.

Although I put 15-30 mins for repair, most of that was taking it apart only to have to put it back until I got the right part. It can be done in 15min or less. FIRST: UNPLUG THE RANGE or Shut the circuit breaker OFF. Remove two screws (1/4" nut driver) on the front lower edge of the cooktop. These are seen once you opent the top oven door. Lift up the top and pull out about two inches and disconnect the multiwire plug in connector. Lift the top off the range and place it upside down on a flat surface (talbe or counter) protected with a towel. Unplug the sliding connectors from the burner unit noticing the correct placement. Remvoe the two tabs (#2 phillips screwdriver) on either side of the burner unit noting location. Take the time to clean up all debris with a vacuum or soft cloth. Install the new burner, connect the two tabs, plug in the connectors, return the top to the range, plug in the multiwire plug, secure the two screws and plug the range back in and start cooking!

Removed burned out burner, replaced new burner tested works fine

It was very easy. Disconnect the electricity. Take the two screws out that hold the top in place. Raise the top and with the pliers change all the electrical connections and retaining bars. Install the two new burned tops. Lower the top and re-install the two retaining screws.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

I watched the video, purchased the correct heating element and did the repair as illustrated in the video. I simply removed the cook top, removed the ground wire, removed the wiring harness, removed the failed heating element, installed the new heating element and reinstalled the wiring. Piece of cake!

took the back off stove to get to switch take pictures of where wires go as well as make a schematic this made it fairly simple no problems glad I did it

unscrew 3 screws under the control panel and pull that away from the glass top making sure the wires don't come apart from the connectors. care fully slide the glass forward and replace the burner which was the easy part. DO NOT try to test without making sure that none of the burner are touching the metal surface!!!!!!!! it will trip your breaker. But now we have a range with 4 burner after a year THANKS

First of all I couldn't believe parts arrived next day. Parts solved the problem I was reluctant to believe new hinges would solve the problem. I installed the hinges in about 1 hour but I had door apart previously so I knew what I was doing. Now my wife is speaking to me again and she threw the wooden spoon away that she used to hold door closed. Just spent $100 dollars and saved $1600 thanks guys.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.