RF376PXEQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

pull range from slot in cabinets, remove power cord from wall plug, remove cover from control panel, hold new control next to old one and transfer wires from one to the other one at a time; reverse procedure to get things put back together

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

Replaced both .

Range surface element control switch was bad. Replaced the switch and every thing works fine. Removed two Philips head screws in front and two Philips head screws in back of the range. Pulled the front panel away from the back of the range with the power off of course. Unplugged the wires and removed the two screws that held the switch in. Replaced the switch and refastened the control panel. Tested the switch and every thing worked fine.

Unplugged the range. Opened the oven door and took out the shelves. Took the right screw out, but had trouble getting the left one out do to the age of the range. Unhooked the two wires and took the element out. Put the new one in and hooked up the two wires. Attached the two screws and checked to see that the element laid flat and then tighten screws. Closed the door and plugged the range back in and turned the oven on and it worked perfect.

Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.

Followed instructions on urine that you provided. Instructions were great.
Only problem had was the screw was hard to get loose on one due to oven usage from previous people but I got it after a bit and then fairly simple from there. Unplugged and plugged new element in. Works although seems to run a bit hotter than before.

Just turn off power , remover screws. Remove and plug in new part.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Turn off power to the stove (unplug or turn off breaker)
Remove back panel screws (Phillips) and back panel
Unplug switch
Remove knob and attaching screws (Phillips)
Remove and replace switch
Reinstall screws for switch and plugs in the back
Snap off the end of the stem if it's too long and reinstall knob
Reinstall back panel and turn power back on

*important: the large element has an updated switch and you may need to snap off the end of the stem with pliers! It's too long and there are no instructions for this included!*

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

use needle nose pliers to disconnect the element from the power supply. After disconnecting it was easy to repair.

Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.