WLP83800 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

First , I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven.
Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove.
I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.

I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on.
Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.

The repair went very well the most difficult was getting the door off. There is a certain way to do it as the springs in the door are very strong. It went well except for a small cut a thumb. The repair is easier with two people at least to get the door removed. You must be very careful to remember how the door comes apart. Be careful to not touch the glass putting it in once it is installed it is impossible to get the finger prints off. With help of a friend or in this case my son along with a couple of bloody marys it went well and we had fun.

thanks

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

I ran numerous tests to eliminate the on/off switch and to ensure the wires were not defective. Thus I came to the conclusion it must be the burner was defective. I ordered the part from parts.com. I received the part in less time than what was advertised. The part arrived in good condition. I placed the part in and it worked just like new.

Thank You

removed 4 scews underside of door 2 more at top to remove door handle. than removed front door panel. removed inner sheild by bending 4 tabs.removed outside door glass than insideglass. reversed process to complete.

With glass side down:
1. Removed the side panels
2. Removed the bottom panel
Turned over door holding glass in place.
3. Removed outer glass panel
4. Removed handle top
5. Removed top screw holding hinge mechanism
6. Removed screw for spacer and clip holding hinge mechanism
7. Lifted hinge mechanism out and replaced with new part.
Reattached parts and screws in reverse order (6-1)

Pulled the oven door out. Took the whole door apart and put it back together. The first time I put it back together the inner glass was still loose so I had to take it apart again and figure out how to hold everything together tightly. Your part was perfect. The glass was exactly the same as two others in the oven door. I wish I had instructions but when the parts fit it sure helps.

Easy.
Remove 2 screws.
Remove wires from old element.
Attach wires to new element.
Replace screws.
Took 5 minutes.

took the door off, removed the screws, removed the back of the door, took the broken glass out, put new glass in, reassemble door, put door back on.

Just as others said. Remove top holdown bolts with nut driver. Prop range top up.
Use a pair of plyers to remove wires (make sure you have a diagram to restore).
Use screwdriver to remove element hold down spring and wire holder. Replace element and replace wires and screws.

The first time I took the door apart to see what part to order it was difficult. The second time I knew what I was in for and was more prepared. Replacing the hinges were no problem. It was taking apart the door that was more difficult.

Removed door parts & cleaned each, till the glass was reached. Replaced glass and reinstalled parts in order removed.

Watched video and followed the very accurate and helpful instructions. A #2 Phillips screwdriver was the only tool required. This is an easy job for the average person.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

There are already good instructions here on doing the repair, so I will just add what I found important. 1) using penetrating oil and an impact wrench on the screws that hold the inner glass to the inside of the oven door - they were rusted tight. 2) the outside glass front sits on the front of the door, on top of the edges of the side pieces, even though it looked to me like the side pieces were meant to go over the edges of the glass - they aren't. The bare side edges of the glass aren't covered with any trim at all. The video on removing the oven door that matched the kind of hinges I had showed taking them off the door as part of disassembly of the door. I didn't find that necessary at all, and you probably won't either. Less parts to have to get back in place. The hard part to me was finding the correct disassembly video to match the oddball hinges, which isn't to say it's a bad design - actually it seems better that the other more common designs. Take out the two screws above where the hinges enter the range, and lift the door up, away from the range, and off. Easy peasy.