FES364EN0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

My wife did it! I got home one night and my wife had done it! That's how easy it was! Trust me, he is no handyman (woman) but she did it by herself. The part came fast, the price was better than any one else's

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

It went great. I am not very handy, but with a little help from your website reviews, I was able to easily remove the old broiler element and replace it with the new one in less than an hour. I immediately tested it and found that it worked great.

I installed th for a refue Temperature Sensor and that was the fix. I did not need to install the bake element. I returned the bake element

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Unplugged unit from wall.
Unscrewed the two screws on at he back of the oven where the element is attached
Removed old element by pulling apart the connectors.
Attached new element to the connectors.
Replaced cover with the two screws.

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

First I removed the two screws that hold the glass cook top in place. Then I removed 4 screws that hold a small metal plate that shields the switch. Replacing the switch was very simply just a matter of unplugging four wire connectors from the old switch, sliding the new one in and reconnecting the wires. It was very easy to find the part on the website. I just located the switch on the diagram and ordered the part. I really surprised my husband that I ordered the part and repaired the stove by myself. He was intending on calling a repairman, but I did it myself.

Simply removed the bottom drawer, unscrew the old broken glide, and attach the new glide. Simple and no hassles.

This was a very smooth repair. In total it took about 5 minutes. The pot drawer below the oven wasn't gliding like it once did. After I replaced the glides it works like new. Please note, if you are going to replace one side go the next step and replace both to provide balance to the drawer.

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

The video was very helpful.

Very simple.
Remove 2 mount screws using a #2 phillips screwdriver.
Pull the element out to expose the 2 wires.
Using pliers, slip both wire terminals off the existing element.
Push wires onto the new element and install both mounting screws..
Done!

NOTE: The existing element showed no exterior signs of being bad.
The damage must have been internal.

1. Unplug the power
2. Unscrew the two screws that hold the element
3. Pull the element out a little to expose the wires.
4. Gently pull off each wire (best done with needle nose) MAKE SURE THE WIRES DONT FALL INTO THE BACK OF THE OVEN.
5. Firmly seat wires back onto new element and replace screws
6. Bake stuff!