RF391PXXW1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.

The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.

I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.

I have reinstalled the earlier unit.

Is part# PS 11744446 no longer available?



James E Weimholt. jmwm4031@verizon.net

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.

was very easy to install I only needed a phillips screwdriver to remove old part and install new one.

Did require removing almost every screw in the oven door. Labeled the screws as they were removed. Not difficult, just like solving a puzzle.

I first tripped the power circuit breaker. Then I unplugged and removed the old element. Removing one screw allowed me to remove and replace the mounting clip. This did result in breaking off a small piece of plastic-like material from the electrical housing to which the clip was attached but did not hinder the replacement of the new clip. I inserted the new burner element. The surface burner is now working fine.

As soon the Bake Element has arive, I install it no more than 5 min... All I nedd was a Screw driver. It was so easy, Thank You PartSelet!

I had previously partially removed the element and tested with multi-meter to determine that it was not working (open circuit). Repair procedure follows:

Turned off Power
Removed 2 retaining screws
Pulled element out part way
Removed 2 spade connectors supplying power
Replaced element w/new element
Reversed procedure
Tested Oven; worked fine.

Of course, power off first, then I removed the old one and inserted the new one, make sure everything in right place, then turn on power, simple as 1-2-3.

First, I turned the breaker off to the oven, that's the most important step.
Next, I turned on the oven to make sure the oven was not energized.
I then took out two phillips screws that were holding the baking element in place.
Next I pulled the element out slowly to expose the wires that connected to the element.
I removed the connecters, took out the damaged element, replaced it with the new element.
Last, I screwed the two phillips screws back in, and saved a $65.00 service call.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Removed the 2 screws that hold the element in place. Pulled the element forward about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Plugged the wire clips onto the new element and pushed the element back into place. Put the 2 screws back into place. This was a very easy repair.

I had to pull the stove out from the wall and discounted the power source from the wall. Than I used the a phillips screwdriver take out the heat element. There was now problem fixing the stove. Lowell Moxley

unscrewed two screws put in new element replaced two screws done, recieved the element within days of order,it was the right part,couldn't have been happier with the service from parts select thank you.

Was able to use a philips screwdriver and remove 2 screws. I then clean the bottom of the oven. The installation was even easier. Took less than 5 minutes. Saved over $60.00 in labor cost

I read other other posts and followed their advice. Remove the 2 screws holding the element to the back of the oven...gently pull it out about 3" to reveal the connecting wires. I found the needle nose pliers were necessary to detach and reattach the wires. Don't yank! Be aware that the wires have a tendency to want to pull back into the back of the oven while they're loose. This was a wall oven and that woul've been a large problem if they they had. Otherwise it was a snap!