GY396LXPB03 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I turn off the power in the breaker box and then unscrew the part and replace it with the new one

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Removed old fan by removing all screws except the back two lower screws - here I cut the flange on the old fan to remove. Drilled the back two bottom holes so as to fit over existing screws then replaced the top 3 and bottom 2 screws as well as power leads. Offset screwdriver is a must.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Simple - Removed oven door attached retainer with screw.Re attached door.

Whirlpool wanted three time the cost of the same parts The only shipping option was Fedex Overnight which was very costly.

Your prices are great "Parts Select".

Jan

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

First turn off breakers for cooktop. Reached undereneath the cooktop and pushed it out and set on the counter. (1) unscrewed the frame holding the glass and removed it. (2) pulled glass off. (3) Unhooked the burned out element after identifying wire connections so I could connect the new element correctly. (4) Put the glass back on the frame. (5) Placed the frame over the glass and screwed it back to to frame. (6) Moved cooktop back into place. (7) Turned breakers back on and turned element on and it was operational. It was a very easy job.

We called a dear handyman church member with years of repair service to his home, personal vehicles and general maintenance of our little church and parsonage. Known for his trade as an engineer with over 50 years in the industry wearing white shirts and working in an office; however, he is not afraid to get his hand dirty. We all worked together (my husband, daughter and me) to troubleshoot and resolve the problem and the terminal block purchased from "parts select" was just the answer to all our problems and worries. The range is fully operational and works like new. Thanks.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

First, I turned the circuit breaker off to the range. Then, I pulled the range out so that I could get to the screws which held the glass top in place. They were located on the sides of the range. I had to remove the trim pieces on the sides to get to the forward screws. Once that was done, I lifted the glass top, unplugged the wire harness, flpped it over on a protected surface. I noted the numbers on the old coil where the clips held it in place and put the clips on the new coil in the same place. The old wires just clipped on to the new coil exactly as they clipped on to the old coil. I put it all back together and it works great! I am a 70 year old woman who did this all by myself. You young guys should have no problem.