RS696PXGB5 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I decided NOT to crawl under my stove top to find the correct model no. of the unit, as recommended in the Help section of the website. Instead I just guessed. It arrived, and of course didn;t fit. So I crawled under the stove top, got the correct model no., and instantly found the correct part to order. Part Select instantly honored my request for a refund on the first part and the correct part is on its way. So I ended up paying two delivery charges instead of one. LESSON LEARNED.

You will need a screwdriver and two pieces of duct tape (very important) before you start.
Unscrew the plate that attaches and keeps the element in place to the oven wall. If the screws are rusty, replace those too at this time.
Very gently pull the element and the wires out into the oven cavity. Do not tug. Gently remove one wire from the burnt element and use a piece of tape to stick it to the oven wall. If you lose the wire or if it slips back into the hole in the wall, you are in trouble. Repeat with the other wire. Now assemble the new element in the reverse order, one connector at a time. Screw back the holding plate, and you are done. Takes less than 10 minutes to complete and your oven will be as good as new.

I turn off the power in the breaker box and then unscrew the part and replace it with the new one

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

I shut the power off first as this is 240v. Then removed all the screws that hold the element on. The old one had 5 screws. For this part you will need to buy new or reuse the old screws. I reused the old ones. Once loose the element pulled forward and exposed the connectors. I used pliers to pull the broken one out as it did not come out with the old element. It will only pull out a few inches, but that is enough to unplug the connectors. After unplugged the element can be taken to recycling. The new one can be set in the oven with the connectors near the wires and plug the two sides into the connectors. Have a screw ready and slide the rear of the element back into rear which will support it while you insert one of the screws into the front support to hold the element in place. Then move the element and support as needed to install the remaining screws. Once it is all tight, turn on the power and make sure it works.

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

Removed locking device

Removed the door from oven removed screws from door and replaced the old hinges with new ones perfect match

Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)

Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.

Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.

There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.

There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.

There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.

Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.

Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.

The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.

With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)

In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.

As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.

One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.

Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin

Several professional appliance repair people told me I had to get a new oven (double, no less!) because "they don't make that hinge anymore." That would have been a $4-5K investment to replace two ovens that both work fine. I'm not generally a DIY person, but was inspired by a FB page I follow called "Handy Women." I got the model number out of my oven, googled "replacement hinge for ____," and found it on this site right away. $120 and about 1 week later I had my hinges. I found this video in the comments on this website that shows (without narration) exactly how to change the hinges.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzQuU2gZYhk
The only mistake I made that cost me some time had to do with the little pins you have to put into the hinge to remove and replace the oven door. They were missing from the old hinges, and it didn't occur to me to use the ones that were in the new hinges (hadn't unboxed when I started.) I used threaded bolts that were the right diameter and length. They slid right in, but then when I went to take them out, it was an ordeal with WD-40 and an Allen wrench. Then it still didn't occur to me to look at the new ones, so I went to the hardware store and bought two more things the right size without threads. Of course when I took the new hinges out of the boxes they already had the little pins in them. Annoying and time consuming rookie mistake, but my oven door now closes just fine, and I'm getting a ridiculous amount of satisfaction from my little repair job!

Small, older female with limited hand strength here. Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the baking element from the oven wall with a screwdriver, snapped out the old one and snapped in the new one. 5 min tops. The broiler was a bit more labor intensive as the rusted and/or stripped screws did not want to come out. Used some liquid wrench, gripping grit, and a power drill to remove, but once the screws were out, it was another easy snap off/snap back in process. Had some screws on hand to replace the stripped ones. Broiled a steak that night with the new red hot broiler. So happy. This repair just saved me approximately $1800 to replace a 28 yr old drop-range. Very happy with this purchase.

Followed suggestions from prior Customers that had same problem.

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

Unplugged old element unit and plugged in new element. Took two needle nose pliers and a flexible body. Took about 5 minutes. Works fine. Anybody can do it. Make sure power is off at the box.

Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.